The wines of Mustilli of Sant’Agata dei Goti

These notes accompany a in-depth feature on Sannio, Campania. For profiles of all of these estates please see Regional report: The wines and winemakers of Sannio.

See all stockists on wine-searcher.

White and sparkling wines

Mustilli, Spumante Brut NV, Campania, Italy
Made from Falanghina, and though not vintage-dated, from the 2013 harvest. Delicious aromas, the apple and pear lots of forth and freshness. The second fermentation is done by friends in Valdobbiadene. Lovely bitter finish from the grape. Delicious hyper-Prosecco in style. 88/100.

Mustilli, Falanghina del Sannio 2014, Campania, Italy
Lots of ripe apple and pear, waxy citrus skins and a certain minerality. The palate is powerful and concentrated, lots of citrus and taut, mineral salts and acidity. Teasing glimpses of more juicy, nectarine-like ripeness, but that structure and concentrated weight is the driving force. 88/100.

Mustilli, ‘Vina Segreta’ Falanghina del Sannio 2008, Campania, Italy
A Cru wine from selected vines, but only made when Ana believes the quality is good enough to bottle on its own. She has not made one since 2009, but has hopes for 2014. Has a lot of orange to the colour and definite age and oxidation visually and aromatically, though there is some honey and blossom that comes through. On the palate it is alive however, a delicate nutty and orange oxidative quality, but limpid and fresh acidity. Delicious, but could have been a little fresher I think. 88/100.

Mustilli, ‘Vina Segreta’ Falanghina del Sannio 2005, Campania, Italy
Not quite so deeply coloured and undoubtedly seems fresher. Again blossom and pollen aromas, and the bitter almond bite on the palate is decisive and pithy, really bold and structured stuff of huge intensity with an endlessly long finish. It’s one of those wines that is almost tipping over into just too high a level of concentration, but it is marvellous and singular. 92/100.

Mustilli, ‘Vina Segreta’ Falanghina del Sannio 2003, Campania, Italy
50% of this was fermented in second use barriques. Blossom and almond, pollen and charming orchard fruits. A touch of salty minerals in a marvellous nose. The palate has lovely dash and verve, reminiscent of a great white Graves perhaps, with the bittersweet, bitter almond finish. Long and delicious. A great wine. 94/100.

Mustilli, Greco Sant’Agata dei Goti 2014, Campania, Italy
The first variety they bottled (in 1976). Light and glowing emerald colour. Still a little tanky and pear-droppy, estery, but has the lifted crisp pear and green apple. The palate has masses of pithy, dry flavour and acidity, a very refreshing style – vigorous and vital, with a burgeoning sweetness to the fruit. 88/100.

Mustilli, Santacroce Greco 1977, Campania, Italy
What an honour to taste one of the four last bottles of this wine, bottled as a Vino di Tavola. A fascinating nose, with lots of blossom and pollen, a waxy polish, beeswax note and gentle oxidation. The palate still has sweetness of fruit and a certain purity, a fine orange and lemon zesty feeling, mellowing, but salty acidity in balance. Long, with still a suggestion of crunch and life, and a superb example taken straight from the cellar. Dry and very fine. 91/100.

Red wines

Mustilli, Piedirosso Sant’Agata dei Goti 2014, Campania, Italy
Young and fresh, Ana Chiara says for drinking within first year. So fresh, sappy, twigs and bracken, moss and dry redcurrants. The palate has that delicious Gamay or red Vino Verde character, fresh and crunchy, but actually has delicious depth and enough tannin from the very big berries. Delicious with a lighter wild mushroom pasta. 88/100.

Mustilli, Aglianico Sannio 2010, Campania, Italy
Rich liquorice nose, with a dry inkiness and blue/black fruit intensity. Hints of herbs and blood, dry iron oxide quality. Sweet edged ripe black fruits on the palate. Juicy plum richness and depth, lovely bitter note from the fruit and edged with sinewy structure and tannin, the keen elevated acidity is perfectly in pitch giving the energy and edge to the wine. 92/100.

Mustilli, Aglianico Sannio 2003, Campania, Italy
Made from 30-year-old vines at 300 metres helped offset a very hot year. Aged in Botti (large wooden casks). Extra weight, depth and delicious sensual stuff with a natural animal attraction. So wonderfully plush and sweetly fruited on the palate. Velvety and smooth, flecked with coffee and chocolate but such a purity of fleshy plum. Wonderful and long, sweet, soft tannins and perfect acid balance. 93/100.

Sweet wine

Mustilli, Passito Phileno 2007, Campania, Italy
This is made from Falanghina 50%, Malvasia 25% and Fiano 25%, dried for 40 days and aged in French oak barriques for nine months. Gorgeous deep marmalade and leaf tea aromas, with honey and toast. The palate has superb richness and there’s a grassy note that adds some cut. Toasty but beautifully long and balanced. Sesame seed depth but clarity. 91/100. See all stockists on wine-searcher.

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