Each January London’s wine trade turns itself over to showing the wines of the latest Burgundy vintage. These 2001s are on sale now “en primeur” with a big promotional campaign to back them. By and large the whites have already been bottled, whilst the red wines are about to be bottled in Burgundy before being shipped. Notes on the red wines in particular therefore, carry the caveat that all “barrel sample” tasting notes should: these are not necessarily finished wines, and the assessment should be taken on that basis.Tasters: Rosemary George MW and Neal Martin.
Rosemary George MW
Of the 2001 Chablis Rosemary notes: “2001 was not a great year in Chablis, with a week of wet weather just before the harvest and an indifferent summer. The Côte d’Or did not suffer quite the same problems with rain as Chablis, but it was still not a great summer.” However, Rosemary has identified a few producers who have made very good wines in all regions.
I’ve marked the wines I recommend with an asterisk. It was intèresting that taking price into account I’ve tended towards village wines and avoided the 1er crus, but a few Grands Crus were so good that I believe they are genuinely worth the money.
Prices are estimated in some cases, and are per dozen bottles “in-bond”, so duty and VAT must be added.
John Armit whites
by Neal Martin:
Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
* Nose of cut grass. Not intense. Good balance with herbal/mineral notes. Quite full and plump on the finish. Cleanly made. A very good wine in a so-so good vintage in Chablis. 19/25. £120
Bouchard Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru les Clos
Very intense nose: wet sand and granite. Very full-bodied with citrus/lemony notes. Quite spicy on the finish. Good complexity. Another excellent Chablis (under William Fevre label). 21/25. £225
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
Muted nose. Moderate complexity. Suffers from being commercial in style. Lacks complexity that a 1er Cru demands. Very average. 17/25. £300
Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault 1er Cru les Perrières
Reticent nose: note of shellfish and nuts. Well-balanced. Again, commercial style with a fine strong spicy/walnut palate. A fine wine but expensive. 18/25. £320
Domaine Blain-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Boudriotte
Again, little on the nose. Quite tinny. Palate is Very fine, good definition/concentration. Bitter lemon. Quite powerful. Fine nervosity. Finishes with a flourish. Excellent. 20/25. £190
Domaine Blain-Gagnard Puligny-Montrachet Villages
Very little on the nose. Good intensity on palate but commercial and lacking nuance. Simple citrussy lemon. Blowsy. Grassy on the finish. Lacks P-M`s nervosity. Average. 16/25. £170
Domaine Marquis d`Angerville Meursault 1er Cru Santenots
Faint citrussy fruits on the nose. A little flat and blowsy on the palate. Simple. Lacks depth. Slightly peppery. The oak dominates the wine. Expect more from such a fine producer. 15/25. £195
Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
Again the palate lacks complexity. Obvious. Peach. Full-body. Well-integrated creamy oak. Orange/apricot. Fine early drinking but not the best meursault by any means. 18/25.
Berry Brothers & Rudd whites
by Rosemary George MW
Domaine Roger Belland Meursault les Santenots 1er cru – £261.67
Firm nutty nose; ditto on palate. Quite elegant fruit, with firm structure and oak. Long.
Belland Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot le Pitois 1er cru – £214.56
Firm nose; dry firm nutty palate; nicely structured, with firm fruit and potential.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet Villages – £162.67
Firm nutty leafy nose; ditto on palate. Quite elegant
Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet, en Remilly ler cru – £248.00
Elegantly leafy nose; ditto on palate. Elegant fruit; stylish.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Bouzereau-Gruere Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chaumées
Very rich pineapple nose. Full and intense but lacks complexity. Peach & apricot notes. Very aromatic & bold. Quite minerally on the finish. Immediate drinking I think. 17/25
Domaine Bouzereau-Gruère Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
Very dumb nose. Stony. Not giving much away. Quite full-bodied but lacks concentration/finesse. Low acidity. A bit blanc and monotonous at the moment. 15/25
Domaine Colin Déleger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
moderate intensity.citrus lemon. Granite. Fine definition. Palate packed full of citrus lemon/minerals. Fine acidity. Well-balanced. Quite feminine and elegant compared to others. Very good. 19/25
Domaine Denis Boussey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
Like Monthélie, low aromatics. Bland & monotonous. Touch of anis. Palate is very rich, OTT with walnut/almond notes. But lacks definition and backbone. Average. 17/25
Domaine Denis Boussey Monthélie Villages Blanc
Little on nose. Quite woody and angular. Very odd nougat palate. Funky. Over-oaked. Lacks focus. Reasonable early drinking but nothing more. 15/25
Domaine Denis Boussey Puligny-Montrachet Villages
Nothing on the nose. Palate lacks definition.Very rich – toffee apple. Nougat. Low acidity. Lacks complexity. Pear, apple & nuts on the finish. A bit non-descript though. 16/25
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
Very intense fruity nose. Cherry & strawberry scents. Hedonistic palate. New Worldy. Very rich and decadent but loses sense of terroir. P-M? Quite off – marked down for atypicity. 18/25
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux
* Rich citrussy/lime nose. Very minerally. Full-bodied intense palate with good acidity. Spicy. Coconut tinged finish. Very well-balanced and superb value. 19/25. £115.94
Domaine Jean-Michel Gaunoux Meursault 1er Cru La Goutte d`Or
* Very fine walnut nose. Good intensity. Asian spice. Fine definition – Very minerally with rounded roasted nuts. Good acidity/complexity. Long nutty finish. Superb. 21/25. £273.90
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Remilly
Fine definition on nose. Lemon, pineapple & hedgerow. Mint? Good complexity – granite & minerals. Fine definition. Coconut. moderate length. Very fine. 19/25
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet Villages
Bland nose. Woody – dried leaves. Quite a lot of creamy oak masking the flavour. Limey. Quite full on the finish. Simple but cleanly made. Not bad value. Fine. 16/25
Domaine Roger Belland Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Clos Pitois
Strong aromas of cough-candy and citrus fruits. Palate has good definition and well-integrated oak. Quite Meursault in style. Good complexity. Vigorous. Nutty finish. Excellent wine. 20/25
Domaine Roger Belland Meursault 1er Cru Les Santenots
Very little on nose. Lemon. Good definition on palate. Hazelnuts and almonds with a fine spicy finish. But does lack complexity expected of 1er Cru hence low mark. Med term drinking. 16/25
Domaine Roger Belland Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains
Very minerally and typical P-M on nose. Good concentrated Minerals with a hint of toffee. Lots of rich oak here. A little blowsy. Very clean with an attractive minerally finish. 5-8 years. 20/25
Domaine Roger Belland Santenay Villages Blanc
Very muted nose. Pine needles. Very bland palate with simple green appley fruits. Low acidity. Quite one-dimensional. Medium-length. Flat and unexciting. 14/25
Domaine Patrick Javillier Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
* A huge nose: roasted nuts, almonds, peach & pineapple. Very concentrated Fine definition. Full of minerals with a touch of strawberry. Honeyed finish. Decadent grand vin. 8-15 yrs. 22/25. £577.16
Domaine Patrick Javillier Meursault Villages – Clos du Cromin
moderate intensity on nose. Toffee ,even liquorice! Good definition on palate with well-integrated oak. Creamy. Nutty and quite viscous texture. moderate length. Not bad but not great. 16/25
Domaine Patrick Javillier Meursault Villages – Tête de Murger
Nose is much more intense. Minerals & nuts. Fine definition.Very clean with well-integrated oak. Good concentration with a fine citrussy finish. (Bit pricey though at £285.33) 19/25
Visit the BB&R web site.
Haynes, Hanson & Clarke whites
by Rosemary George MW.
P et M Guillemot-Michel Mâcon-Villages Quintaine 2001 – £147.70
A rich fat nutty nose and an extraordinarily rich, almost honeyed palate. Rounded and ripe; almost a dessert wine! Wonderfully original.
Maison Champy St-Aubin, Murgers des Dents de Chien 1er cru – £134.50
Quite a firm nutty nose; quite rounded grassy fruit on palate – quite a broad flavour, with a nutty finish.
Maison Champy Meursault 1er cru les Cras – £225.50
A hintense buttery on nose; quite a rich textured palate with layers of flavour, oak, body and buttery fruit.
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet – £210.00
Some delicate oak on nose; quit grassy leesy flavour with good acidity. Long.
Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru les Perrières – £287.40
Firm nose; tight structured fruit. Firm with layers of flavour to develop. Tight knit palate.
Domaine Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet blanc – £159.00
Tight closed nose; ditto on the palate, firm and structured but with fine potential.
Chassagne-Montrachet blanc 1er cru Les Vergers – £215.00
Firm nose, closed. Tight structured palate; good structure and again great potential.
Justerini & Brooks whites
by Rosemary George MW
Les Héritiers des Comtes Lafon Mâcon – Milly @ £102.00
A firm leafy nose, replicated on the palate with good acidity and a dry leesy finish.
Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis- £110.00
A firm nose, with dry leafy fruit on nose and palate. Softer than some of the Côte d’Or wines but with good length.
Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er cru Beauroy – £120.00
Firm tight fruit on nose; a more structured palate than the Chablis, but quite forward with good body and weight.
Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er cru Côte de Léchet – £129.00
Closed lightly buttery nose; firm dry leesy fruit on palate; some body and firm dry finish.
Domaine Dauvissat-Camus Chablis 1e cru Vaillons – £157.00
Closed nose, with a firm unforthcoming palate, but with some concentration of flavour. Should develop well, with a long finish.
Dauvissat-Camus Chablis la Forêt, 1er cru – £193.00
Quite a rich nose, more forward than the Vaillons, riper with more obvious concentration.
Dauvissat-Camus Chablis, les Clos, grand cru – £310
Firm closed nose; quite sturdy firm fruit, with some substance on the palate. Promises well. Aged for six months in mainly old wood.
Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet, Tête du Clos 1er cru – £297.00Quite rounded lightly buttery fruit, with good acidity and a freshness on the finish.
Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet, la Romanée, 1er cru – £297.00Quite firm mineral nose, and the same mineral notes on the palate. Appealingly elegant
Vincent Dancer Meursault les Perrières – £340.00Firm concentrated, but elegant mineral nose and palate. Very stylish and subtly rich.
Domaine Albert Grivault Meursault – £193.00
Quite a leafy oaky nose, quite rich palate, with layers of ripe fruit and flavour. Good body. Should develop well.
Albert Grivault Meursault Clos des Perrières, 1er cru – £439.00
An elegant nose, nicely harmonious and rounded on the palate. Nicely knit-together.
Domaine JN Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet, les Chenevottes 1er cru – £285.00
Firm structured nose; ditto on the palate with good acidity and a tightly knit finish.
Etienne Sauzet Puligny Montrachet les Folatières, 1er cru – £529.00
Quite rounded nose, with firm leesy elegant fruit on the palate, balanced with good acidity.
Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montrachet, grand cru – £1133.00
Closed nose; very subtle understated fruit; discreet, harmonious and elegant.
Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Blanc – £97.00
Quite rich, smoky flinty nose and palate, with a certain leesy taste on the palate.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Very clear. Faint/floral notes. Backward. Palate is intense, tight. Apricot and petrol. Very complex but this will take years to come round. Superb. 21/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Chardonnay
* Very clear. Limpid. Simple citrussy nose. Honeyed. Very powerful, minerally palate with fine complexity. This is superb quality for a Bourgogne Blanc. Very good. 19/25. £121.00
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garennes
Pale straw. Restrained wet pavement nose. Well-balanced. Fine complexity. Smooth. Fine acidity. Limestone & lemon zest. Very strong finish. Superb wine. 21/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
Limpid. Very restrained nose. Limestone. Palate is Very intense with quince, lemon/orange zest. Seems a little more obvious than Garenne. 5-8 years. 21/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
Pale lemon. A little simpler than Garenne. Hedgrow. Grass. Refined palate. Elegant. Lacks the power of Garenne. More understated. Touch of peach on the finish. Needs time. 20/25
Domaine Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet Villages
Clear. Very floral nose. Roses. Spring dew. Very generous and open on the palate. Lemon/granite. Quite opulent with an attacking spicy finish. Very vibrant. Superb. 20/25
Domaine Follin-Arbelet Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Pale straw. Rounded, supple citrus nose. Banana. Less complex than Javillier. Very rounded minerally palate. Peach & lemon notes. Good definition. Interesting but not profound. 19/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Pale lemon. As usual, nose is Very backward and dumb. Palate is intense with citrussy fruits. Very fine acidity. More feminine and elegant than 00. Touch of apricot on the finish. 8-15 yrs. 22/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
Pale lemon. Nose is again backward. Peach and peardrops. Very good definition on palate. Very minerally and fine complexity. Well-integrated oak. Very elegant with a “wet pavement” finish. P-M style. Superb. 21/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
Very pale/neutral colour. Restrained nose. Faint mineral/apple but not much intensity. Some SO2 on the palate with a bitter lemon finish. Maybe this will improve but I`m not sure. 17/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
Pale straw. Green tinge. Excellent definition on nose: apple/pear. Cut grass. Rich minerally palate. Finish falls away a little. moderate length. 3-6 years for this. Very fine. 20/25
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet les Masures
Pale straw. Very intense citrussy nose. Lavender. Powerful, intense, citrussy palate. Peach. Not complex but good acidity and definition. 3-4 years for this. Very good. 19/25
Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis
moderate straw colour. Quite a rich peardrop scented nose but the palate is a let-down. Dilute, bland with little complexity. Below average. 13/25
Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er Cru Clos de Léchet
Quite grassy on nose. Hedgerow/some violets. But again the palate is very disappointing. Lacks vigour and complexity. Very weak on the finish. Poor. 14/25
Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny
Very pale lemon. Quite bland on nose. Touch of lemon/orange peel. Again, well-integrated oak. Quite spicy. Lacks the finesse of a 1er Cru and still too pricey. 17/25
Domaine Martelet de Cherisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux
Light straw colour. Simple apricot, grapefruit nose. Not complex. Good concentration on palate but lacks definition and nervosity. Nice peppery finish. Prefer the 2000. 18/25
Domaine Morey Blanc Meursault Villages – Les Narvaux
moderate lemon colour. Good intensity on nose. Walnuts. Palate is soft with almond & coconut notes. Touch of strawberry on the finish. Not long-term but very well-made. Excellent. 20/20
Lucien Denizot Montagny 1er Cru Le Vieux Château
* Very pale lemon. Nose is lush and peachy. Very attractive. Good concentration with lemon/apricot notes. Good complexity. Engaging with a sensuous oaky finish. Very impressive and great value at £100/cs 19/25. £102.00
William Fèvre & Bouchard whites
by Rosemary George MW:
Chablis 1er Cru Montmains
Firm, flinty palate. Quite elegant with good mineral notes.
Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
Delicate flinty nose. Quite firm mineral fruit on palate, with good acidity and ageing potential.
Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Quite firm oaky nose; with oak much more apparent on the palate. Elegant with good acidity and some weight. Balanced. Should develop well.
Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, Vignoble de Vaulorent
Firm steely nose; ditto on palate, with elegant mineral notes. An elegant finely crafted palate.
Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
Firm structured nose, with good acidity and a firm backbone on the palate. Some understated oak, with layers of flavour to develop.
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Quite a rounded nose, with some oak. Understated concentration on the palate; firm and structured with some weight and body.
Chablis Grand Cru les Clos
Quite a solid dense nose; with closed firm fruit and dry oak on the palate. Firm stony mineral fruit, with firm acidity. Should develop well.
Bouchard Père et Fils
Rully les Thivaux
Light nose, with fresh lemony fruit and some acidity.
Beaune Clos Saintense Landry ler cru, monopole
Quite firm nutty nose, with rich oaky fruit and a rounded palate.
Firm closed nose; attractive grassy lightly leesy fruit, with good acidity.
Meursault, le Poruzot, ler cru
Lightly oaky nose, with quite obvious oak on palate. Quite study and still very youthful.
Meursault Perrières, ler cru
Closed nose; firm study mineral fruit; and on palate a combination of minerality and oak. To develop.
Corton Charlemagne, grand cru
Quite an elegant nose; dry firm palate,w with some mineral notes and good acidity. Should develop.
O.E Loeb whites
by Rosemary George MW:
Domaine Denis Boussey Bourgogne Blanc – £54
A great start to the tasting. Quite a rich leafy nose; rounded leafy fruit on palate, balanced with good acidity.
Domaine Marius-Delarche Pernand-Vergelesses – £84
Elegant grassy nose; ditto on palate, with firm elegant fruit and good acidity. Long.
Domaine Larue St.-Aubin ler cru les Cortons – £98
Firm nose, structured dry grassy palate with oaky undertones. Nicely balanced.
Domaine Larue St.-Aubin ler cru En Remilly – £114
Elegantly grassy nose; ditto on palate, elegant with underlying oak.
Château de Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé – £155
Firm nose; quite firm structured palate. Quite tight knit with good concentration.
Vincent Girardin Meursault ler cru les Porozots-Dessus – £189.00
Quite elegant nose, and ditto on the palate with acidity and layers of flavour.
Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet, les Enseignères – £159.00
Very elegant grassy nose; ditto on the palate and quite stylish.
Domaine Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet, les Enseignères – £189.00
Quit firm closed nose; quite elegant herbal oaky notes on the palate. An intriguing contrast with the previous wine.
Domaine Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru Champgains – £265.00
Quite rounded nose; quite elegant firm leafy fruit. Should develop nicely.
Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru Chaumées – £275.00
Quite firm nutty leesy nose; ditto on palate, quite firm fruit with good potential.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine des Morats St.-Véran
* From the makers of Chateau Fuissé, whose own wines represent stunning value. Still a little SO2 on the nose. Lovely balance and nervosity with crisp apple/mineral notes. As good as a 1er Cru Puligny! 20/25
Ch. de Fuissé Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Combettes”
* A massive wine which you would swear is a Puligny in a blind tasting. Stunning definition with well-integrated Old oak. Crisp citrussy finish. Unbelievable value at £137.00
Howard Ripley whites
by Rosemary George MW:
Domaine de l’Arlot NSG blanc, Jeunes Vignes Clos de l’Arlot – £225.00
Quite rounded grassy fruit on nose; elegant rounded fruit, balanced with oak. Long
V & F Jouard Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru, la Maltroie – £258.00
Quite a milky nose; dry nutty palate; layers of fruit. Intriguing.
Guy Amiot Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru, les Macherelles – £270.00
Elegant grassy nose; ditto on palate, with elegant oak.
Colin-Déleger Chassagne-Montrachet, ler cru En Remilly – £327.00
Closed nose; quite elegant nutty fruit. Seems remarkably forward. Long and elegant.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Guy Amiot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champgains
Nose is shutdown. Well-structured with find acidity. Palate laced with almonds. Bitter lemon. Like Marechelles, not powerful, but delicate and refined. Minerally finish. Delicious. 20/25
Domaine Guy Amiot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles
Very muted nose. Hints of lavender. Sweet floral palate. Very feminine. moderate acidity. Lovely balance. Touches of lemon peel and cherries. Very charming and flattering to the palate. 19/25
Domaine Colin Deleger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
Very simple nose. Notes of pineapple. Palate is somewhat one-dimensional now. Lemon, citrus fruits. Not as subtle as Amiot. But quite strong on the finish. Fine. 18/25
Domaine de L`Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de l`Arlot
Intense minerally nose. Fine definition. Puligny-like. Very smooth palate with well-intense oak. Steely on the finish. Very well balanced. Should develop beautifully in 3-4 year. Impressive. 21/25
Domaine de L`Arlot Nuits St. Georges Jeunes Vignes du Clos de L`Arlot
Fragrant limes and apples on the nose. Quite powerful with moderate acidity. Quite Meursault in style with dollops of creamy oak. Turns more minerally on the finish. Decadent wine. 19/25
Domaine Paul Pernot Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Moderate nose. Granite, wet pavement. Melting snow (like outside!) Coconut? Lovely balance. Lemon, apple & lime. Quite dense. Not amazingly complex. Quite backward. Good potential. 21/25
Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault Villages
Clear colour. Musky/lime apple nose. Very aromatic on the palate. Good balance. Soft and supple. citrussy with white pepper on the finish. Fine. 18/25
Domaine Vincent & Francois Jouard Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Big apply nose. Simplistic. Touch of honey. But palate shows signs of slight corkiness. Muffled flavours with a lack of definition on the finish. Needs retasting. 17/25
Berry Brothers & Rudd reds
by Rosemary George MW:
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Chorey-lès-Beaune, la Pièce du Chapitre – £54.93
Price per 6. Firm dry oak on nose; hints of sweet vegetal Pinot Noir, plus oak on palate. Quite ripe and rounded. Long.
Nicolas Potel Savigny-lès-Beaune, Vieilles Vignes – £93.33
Quite firm structured nose; ditto on palate. Firm raspberry fruit. Quite firm with good underlying fruit.
Potel Côte de Nuits-Villages – £85.87
Quite firm nose; structured palate, with fruit tannin and acidity. Quite balanced. Should develop nicely.
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard NSG, Aux Murgers 1er cru – £229.87
Firm solid oak nose; ditto on palate; solid chunky oak. Long with good fruit and oak. To develop.
Domaine Robert Arnoux NSG, Clos des Corvées Pagets 1er cru – £344.00
Quite vegetal on nose; ditto on palate with acidity, tannin and elegant raspberry fruit. Very stylish. Should develop well.
Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée, Aux Reignots 1er cru – £301.33
Firm structured nose and palate. Dry raspberry fruit on palate; midweight. A long finish. To develop.
Domaine Bertagna Vougeot, Clos de la Perrières 1er cru – £290.56
Quite firm nose; quite solid, with sturdy oaky raspberry fruit. Quite firm tannins, with lovely underlying fruit to develop.
Sylvain Cathiard Chambolle-Musigny les Clos de l’Orme- £207.47
Quite firm structured nose; ditto on palate, with firm fruit and fresh raspberry flavours; balanced tannin, acidity and fruit.
Louis Boillot Morey-Saint-Denis, aux Charmes 1er cru – £187.07
Quite light colour; liquorice and raspberry fruit on nose and palate. Quite lightweight but fruit and tannin very present.
Frédéric Magnien Chambertin, Clos de Bèze grand cru – £613.89
Sturdy smoky oak; ditto on palate. Elegantly smoky oak. Stylish with lots of layers. Long and elegant. To develop.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Rene Engel Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brûlées
Pale ruby core. Nose shut down. Palate reveals fine balance, succulent tannins. Rustic. Typical Engel. Earthy/mineral. Tar. Lovely ripe finish. Superb. Best Engel wine for me (bottled in morning!) 21/25
Frédéric Magnien Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Beze
Strong cheesy nose. Earthy. Damp moss. Palate is Very fine. Lovely balance with silky smooth tannins. Sweet cherry/strawberry/plum. Elegant & feminine. Superb wine. 22/25
Louis Boillot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Aux Charmes
Very simple nose. High-toned. Quite angular/sharp. Good balance on the palate though. Slight savoury edge. Fine easy-drinking althought there are superior MSD’s in 2001. 17/25
Nicolas Potel Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Very meaty/fleshy nose. Mint. Very dense, concentrated palate. Good balance with fine complexity. Very pure. Sweet red fruits. Black pepper. Exotic Chambertin. Smooth finish. Excellent. 21/25
Nicolas Potel Côte de Nuits-Villages
Quite a dull reductive nose. Burn rubber. Fruits is clean. Chewy. Very simple. moderate length. Very simple and with moderate length. O.K. but I expected more from Potel. 16/25
Nicolas Potel Savigny-lès-Beaune Villages – Vieilles Vignes
Very Savigny nose – leather/cranberry. Good integration. Fine balance but quite simple with clean fruits. Low tannins. Fine early drinking. Doesn`t excite but better than Volnay. 17/25
Nicolas Potel Volnay Vieilles Vignes
Pale ruby. Simple Pinot nose. Not deep. Palate has good grip. Rustic cherry fruits. Quite tannic and aggressive. More a Bourgogne Rouge quality level. 15/25
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers
Nose is attractive – cherry, roses and vanilla (oak). Very fragrant. Very well-balanced. Feminine. Good depth. Lovely savoury finish – excellent NSG. 20/25
Sylvain Cathiard Chambolle-Musigny Villages – Les Clos de L`Orme
* Concentrated plummy, damson nose. Tight. Earth. Chewy tannins. Excellent concentration. Sweet redcurrant. Cherry. Quite spicy on the finish. Good length. Another fine CM. 21/25. £243.78
Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts
Great depth on nose. Animal, leather/savoury. Good definition. Lush sensuous palate. Subtle new oak. Concentrated with sweet red fruit. Slight bitter finish but very impressive. 22/25
Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots
Much more high-toned on the nose. Rich, alcoholic/oaky. Palate is dense, lots of oak – quite New World in style. Fine definition. Sweet black cherry on the finish. 20/25
Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée
Very muted nose. Simple cranberry/cherry notes. Good depth. Firm balance. Quite earthy and rustic for a V-R. Crunchy feel. Very sweet, good concentration. Fine quality for the Village cru. 18/25
Domaine Bertagna Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Plantes
Dense plummy nose. Pruney – touch volatile. Palate is quite dense. Plums. Very clean. Minerally/earthy. Backward. A little cloying on the finish. Very fine. 19/25
Domaine Bertagna Corton Grand Cru Rouge – Les Grands Lolières
Nose seems hollow after C-M. Quite savoury/herbal on nose. Palate is well-balanced. Good definition. Improves in the mouth. Smooth. Lovely definition on the finish. Potential here. Very fine. 21/25
Domaine Bertagna Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
Very little on nose. Liquorice scented fruits. Quite spicy. Sweet cherry on palate. Quite gamey/chewy and more backward than other wine. Long term possibility. Lush sweet after-taste. Fine. 19/25
Domaine Bertagna Vougeot 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière Monopole
Huge nose. Rustic/earthy. Perhaps lacks depth. Palate packed with chewy tannins. Masculine. Good grip. Plummy damson fruits. Backward. Long term potential. 21/25
Domaine Bruno Clair Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Bèze
Quite light ruby hue. An odd petrolly nose. Earthy. Medium-bodied. Good acidity. Sweet ripe cherry but lacks the complexity of Clos St. Jacques. Good, but not great. 19/25
Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
Very subtle elegant nose. Black cherry and iodine. Lovely lift on the palate. Soars from the glass. Less concentrated than Rousseau. Very ripe and refined. Smooth velvety tannins. Very fine. 20/25
Domaine Dominique Gallois Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Seems over-extracted on nose. Very high-toned. Liquorice. Quite dense with a New Worldy palate. Rich. Lacks some elegance though. Very sweet cherry/strawberry on the finish. Good length. A bit commercial. 18/25
Dominique Gallois Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines
Very lacklustre/thin nose. Very lean. Good balance on the palate though. Spicy/peppery fruits. Coarse though. Rough pressing? Bitter cherry on the finish. Average. 16/25
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Aux Beaux Bruns
Quite perfumed/floral on the nose. Not as animal as other C-M. Wet earth. Quite spicy on the palate with good acidity. Lacks some focus. Lacks depth. Average – nothing special. 17/25
Domaine J Cacheux Echézeaux
Very unexceptional nose. Lacks depth. Black cherry/plum notes. Good balance. Chewy tannins. Very sweet cherry but lacks grip and body. Grand Cru? Not really! 18/25
Domaine J Chauvenet Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
Very sweet nose but lacks depth/complexity. Quite simple palate – another wine seems over-chaptalised. Sickly. Cloying. Confected on the finish. 16/25
Domaine J Chauvenet Nuits-St.-Georges
Rather bland nose. Quite meaty. Boring. Light-med bodied. Low tannins. Simple sweet redcurrant/strawberry fruits. Clean and drinkable, but lacks vigour. 16/25
Domaine Jean-Marc Boulley Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens
Rounded nose of with cranberry/redcurrant notes. Soft. Quite seductive. But palate is unexpectedly harsh with a green stalky core. Very dry on the finish. Below par. 14/25
Domaine Jean-Louis Dufouleur Beaune 1er Cru Les Cents-Vignes
Pale ruby. Ripe cherry/strawberry nose. Too sweet for me. Palate is again quite coarse and lacks elegance. Dry woody element at the finish. Will possibly dry out. 14/25
Domaine Lucien Boillot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux
Very liquorice nose. Toffee. Chewy tannins. Very sweet red fruits – cherry. Blackberry. A little short on the finish. Not bad but not exciting. 18/25
Domaine David Duband Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Les Procès
Very savoury “animal” nose. Good integration and moderate tannins. Well-balanced. Clean. Medium-bodied. Not much grip but again a nice savoury after-taste stays in the mouth. Very fine. 19/25
Domaine Digioia-Royer Chambolle-Musigny
* Lush rich damson damp earthy nose. Very brazen. Concentrated. Chewy. Lovely complexity. This is 1er Cru quality. Good grip. Long finish. Red wine of this tasting. 21/25. £175.46
Howard Ripley reds
by Rosemary George MW:
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune, les Bourgeots – £174.00
Mid colour; rounded raspberries and a hint of oak on nose. Quite solid rounded fruit, with some tannin on palate. Long.
Domaine Paul Pernot Beaune 1er cru les Teurons – 189.00
Light colour; light vegetal notes on palate and palate. An elegant palate with a dry finish. Long.
Domaine Paul Pernot Pommard les Noizons – £222.00
Light colour; firm nose, Quite dry fruit, but with an underlying sweetness. Long
Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin, aux Echézeaux – £216.00
Firm raspberry nose; ditto on palate. Quite fresh firm fruit, with some tannins. Elegant; long; potential
Domaine Géantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin les Jeunes Rois – £222.00
Quite a solid nose. Some ripe juicy fruit. Midweight and quite elegant. Other Géantet-Pansiot wines have a similar delicate elegance and freshness, an appealing house style.
Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée, 1er cru, les Chaumes – £336.00
Firm nose; quite sturdy ripe palate, with some oak influence. Rounded, richer and fuller than some. Long.
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru – £366.00
Mid colour; elegant nose. Raspberry fruit and tannins on palate. Quite concentrated but elegantly so.
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Chambertin Grand Cru – £510.00
Mid colour. quite sturdy nose, and palate, with fresh raspberry fruit and well integrated oak. Long.
Domaine Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru – £888.00
Mid colour; firm nose with oak. Oak on palate with some lovely rounded, ripe fruit, with tannin and acidity. Quite concentrated. Long and considerable potential.
Domaine Robert Arnoux Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru – £672.00
Firm nose, with sturdy fruit, tannins and oak on palate; all beautifully balanced. Showing considerable potential and length.
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru – £864.00
Light colour; quite a closed nose, and also initially on palate but with good fruit; oak raspberries, some tannin and acidity. Very harmonious and balanced; potential.
Domaine Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru – £864.00
Mid colour; quite firm raspberry liquorice fruit. Midweight; some tannins and acidity and a certain freshness. Long. Should develop nicely.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine René Engel Grands Echézeaux
Nose is stalky, lacks some focus. Lacks power of DRC or Gros GE. Very sweet, pure palate. Sprinkling of white pepper. Quite exotic and spicy on the finish. But lacks class and style. Good, not great. 19/25
Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée
Light ruby. Nose is a bit farmyardy/rustic with cherry/cranberry notes. Fine tannins. Rounded. Good grip. Not as harmonious and focused as Arnoux. More rustic and bullish. moderate length. Very good. 18/25
Domaine Robert Arnoux Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
* Completely different to Grivot. Rich high-toned black fruits on nose. Rounded cassis palate. Massive concentration. Well-balance. Pure, Very elegant but powerful. Full-bodied. Layers of rich oak. Long. Sublime. 23/25. £672.00
Domaine Robert Arnoux Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Les Corvées Pagets
A backward nose with hints of orange peel/strawberry. Quite simple. Palate: bitter cherry with light tannins. moderate length. Les Proces has more weight and better mouthfeel. Good but not great. Tasted twice. 18/25
Domaine Robert Arnoux Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Les Procès
* Delicate nose. Lacks some depth. Strawberry/minerals. Fine concentration. Elegant with lovely balance. Smooth. Lots of rich oak with a sweet cassis tinged finish. Very fine. 5+ yrs. 20/25. £300.00
Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes
Typical V-R nose. Elegant blueberry/cherry notes. High-toned. Fine depth on the palate. Good acidity with an almost exotic spicy finish. A decadant hedonistic wine. Superb. 21/25
Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
Probably one of Arnoux’ best lieux-dits. Backward, broody nose. But cheesy? Smooth tannins. Rich with fine acidity. Less complex than the 98. Refined with a powerful redcurrant finish. Superb. 21/25
Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée
Compared to Engel/Clavelier – much smoother and more refined. Rounded high-toned red fruits. Though lighter than Engel, more refined and balanced. Smooth tannins. An impressive V-R in this vintage. 19/25
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Fourneaux
Very funky nose – almost like a Côte-du-Rhône. Cassis. The palate seems very oxidised with soft tannins. Weak, dilute structure. Only just drinkable. 15/25
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses
Simple cherry/strawberry nose. A little more weight. moderate tannins but again unripe fruits (cranberry.) moderate length. End to a woeful flight of 01`s from Bize. 16/25
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Grands Liards
Very simple, practically dilute cranberry/cherry flavoured nose. Light. Weedy. No structure or concentration. Again utterly disappointing. 14/25
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Bougeots
Very light ruby. Already a bad sign! Dilute weak nose. Very dilute on the palate. No structure nor concentration. Not even a basic Bourgogne Rouge. What happened??? 13/25
Domaine Guy Amiot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint Jean Rouge
Lovely hedgrow nose. Roses. Briary. Palate is quite angular but with fragrant ripe fruits. Quite tangy , good vigour, though lacks the nuance of his whites. Medium-term drinking. 18/25
Domaine Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Very little on the nose. Bitter lemon? Palate is metallic with good acidity. White pepper. Moderate grip. Firm. Robust. Quite tannic and rustic. Seems to lack harmony to me. May come together. 18/25
Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart Grand Cru
* Deep colour. Intense nose (with a toy train set note!) Very smooth entry. Immensely concentrated and powerful. Cassis/cherry and violets. Very sophisticated and long, high-toned finish. Brilliant wine. 23/25. £888.00
Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux
Deeper colour than Esmonin. Fine raspberry/floral nose. Roses. Very sweet red fruits. Light-med bodied. Quite pure. Ripe cherry with a little bitter lemon on the finish. Fine early drinking. 18/25
Domaine Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light hue. Touch of änise/liquorice on the nose which is not intense. Änise comes through on the palate. Medium-bod. Refined. Elegant. Sweet cherry/dark chocolate. This would be superb in a better vintage. Very good. 19/25
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Chambertin Grand Cru
Nothing at all on the nose. Palate is refined, more peppery than de Beze though lacks some harmony & focus. Touch of dark chocolate on the finish. Lacks weight and power for me. 20/25
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Bèze
Much more minerally on the nose. Wet pavement. The palate is more floral/elegant with violets/cherries. Doesn’t get into 5th gear and nowhere near Rousseau’s wine but good medium-term drinking. 20/25
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Gevry-Chambertin Clos Prieur
Very little on nose. Quite rustic/earthy. Tangy sweet strawberry. Moderate tannins. Lacks some smoothness. Over-chaptalised? Lacks focus but still quite charming in its way. 18/25
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
A minerally nose – a touch mushroomy and reductive. Medium-bodied. Ripe sweey cherry/cranberry fruits. Seems a tad confected and forced with a bitter Morello cherry finish. Good but not great. 19/25
Domaine Frédéric Esmonin Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Very little on the nose. Palate has good depth. Medium-bodied. Ripe sweey cherry fruits. Good acidity. Slightly monotonous with lack of complexity. Fine pure finish with good definition. Medium length. Very fine. 19/25
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Vieille Vignes
Simple minerally nose. Hedgrow. Rustic. Cut grass. Palate has great concentration/balance. Charnu. Low acidity. Animal. Very typical C-M. Good length. Masculine. Lovely wine. 5-8 yrs. 21/25
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs
A dumb nose. Slightly vegetal. Notes of orange/strawberry. Reductive? Very smooth on the palate with good weight but also foursquare, little joie-de-vivre. Hollow on the finish. Again awkward stage? 18/25
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois
A bland nose. Seems confected and monotonous. Lacks vigour. Simple rounded rasperry/cherry fruits on palate. A touch of plum. This could just not be showing well. Weak tannins. Probably need to retaste. 17/25
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Good weight on the nose. Backward and dense broody red fruits. Palate is very smooth with fine concentration and acidity. Quite spicy and vigorous on the finish. Bravo! Very fine wine. 21/25
Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Grand Clos des Epenots
* Wow – this is so different. Sweet red fruits – black cherry – nicely integrated oak. Good grip. Hints of chocolate. Black fruits. Good length and weight. Perhaps the hail missed this lieu-dit. 20/25. £351.00
Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Croix Noires
Very dilute nose. Insipid palate with a distinct soap-sud flavour. Avoid at all costs! 13
Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers
Bland nose. Cardboardy – dirty filter pads? Light oxidised fruits – it seem over-filtered to me. Light red fruits. Dilute on the finish. Hailed away. 15/25
Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens
Nose less vigour then Epenots. Simple. Quite smoky. moderate grip. Strawberry/cherry. Smoky element again. Truffle? Good acidity with nice definition on the finish. Very fine. 19/25
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Oddly seems better than 00. Good weight on the nose. More concentration than 00. Very sweet cherry flavoured palate which could be over-chaptalised. Somewhat confected. Tart is far superior. 18/25
Domaine Bruno Clavelier Vosne-Romanée La Montagne
Very little on nose. Quite angular with orange/clementine notes. Good acidity. But it lacks the body and finesse of Arnoux`s V-R. Bitter cherry on the finish. O.K. 17/25
Domaine Bruno Clavelier Vosne-Romanée Les Hauts de Beaux-Monts
Rather vinegary, acetic nose. Moderate concentration but lacks grip. Coarse for V-R. Rustic style, earthy with a rather abrupt finish. This should be much better. 14/25
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru
Nose less complex, more fem than Beze. Blueberry pie. Palate has higher acidity with more definition (though Beze more cerebral). Again, amazing purity and balance. Silky smooth. 5-7+yrs. Very great. 21/25
Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Bèze
* The best Rousseau 01. Backward liquorice nose. Very complex. Charnu/meaty. Wonderful purity with blackcherry/liquorice notes. Supreme definition. Complete Pinot Noir with unmatched sophistication. Wine of the vintage? 23/25. £864.00
Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
Much more dense on the nose. Backward. Broody. Palate is refined, a touch of cheese. Not overly complex but a pure PN profile. Smoky hint with a dense minerally finish. Goes on and on. Wonderful. 22/25
Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Very plain nose. Green pepper. Stalky. Palate is medium-bod. Quite spicy but lacks depth or concentration. I prefer Fourrier. Seems to suffer some dilution and fades on the finish. Definition the weak card in the pack. 18/25
Haynes, Hanson & Clarke reds
by Rosemary George MW:
Domaine Françoise et Denis Clair St. Aubin 1er cru rouge – £83.75
Mid colour; ripe raspberries on nose – tannin and acidity and a certain freshness on the palate with raspberry fruit. Good value
Domain Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 2001 – £97.75
Medium colour; closed nose; firm fruit, with hints of liquorice and raspberry; firm tannins and layers of flavour to develop.
Domaines Jean & Annick Parent Pommard 1er cru les Rugiens – £220.50
Firm nose; structured palate; quite tight firm fruit; quite sturdy; Long and should develop well.
Maison Champy Aloxe-Corton 1er cru Clos du Chapitre – £189.25
Firm nose; hints of oak, and more so on palate. Quite sweet oak, with fresh tannins; Medium weight.
Maison Champy Vosne-Romanée 1er cru les Suchots – £308.50
Good colour; firm nose, with a hint of chocolate. Some firm sweet fruit. Quite appealing and supple on finish.
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses 1er cru Ile des Vergelesses – £143.35
(also available in magnums – £147.85 and jeroboams – £187.50) Light colour; delicate raspberry fruit. Ditto on plate; quite fresh with light tannins
Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes grand cru – 279.25
Light colour; delicate nose; elegant fruit on the palate with supple tannins; Long and delicate; finely crafted and quite forward.
Chandon de Briailles Corton Clos du Roi, grand cru – £315.90
Light nose; firmer than Corton Bressandes with more concentration on the palate; still very elegant with a long delicate finish.
Domaine des Lambrays Morey Saint Denis – £201.85
Mid colour; quite firm smoky oaky nose; ditto on palate; oak dominates, but underlying fruit; quite structured and a long finish.
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays grand cru – £97.25
Mid colour; quite firm oak on nose; structured palate; quite sturdy with fruit underneath and very long finish.
Domaine Anne-Françoise Gros Vosne Romanée aux Mazières – 178.95
Mid colour; quite firm structured nose; layers of fruit; structure, tannins and raspberry fruit on palate – good potential.
Anne-Françoise Gros Echézeaux grand cru – £405.50
Good colour; quite a solid closed nose; some ripe rounded fruit, with tannin, structure and layers of flavour. Already quite appealing but with good potential.
Justerini & Brooks reds
by Rosemary George MW:
Domaine Auxey-Duresses, Clos du Val 1er cru – £203.00
Two thirds from 40 year old vines. Quite a round nose with hints of raspberry. Attractive raspberry fruit on the palate. Rounded and structured. Promises well.
Michel Prunier Beaune. les Sizies, 1er cru – £210.00
From 80 year old vines. Quite a spicy liquorice nose, with some oak influence on the palate. Beautifully balanced. Should develop well.
Château de Monthélie Rully, Préaux 1er cru – £121.00
Quite ripe but sturdy liquorice nose. Attractive liquorice fruit, Ripe with an attractive freshness.
Domaine Rémi Rollin Pernand-Vergelesses, Ile des Vergelesses, 1er cru – £191.00
Quite rounded raspberry fruit, with fresh acidity and balancing tannins.
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Chorey-lès-Beaune – £127.00
This wine accounts for one third of their total production. A distinctive new bottle and label design, a sign of the younger generation wishing to make themselves noticed, namely Nathalie Tollot and her two cousins. Quite a solid rounded nose, with rich quite oaky fruit on the palate. A combination of attractively smoky oak and ripe fruit.
Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes, grand cru – £351.00
Quite sturdy firm fruit on nose; oak on alate balanced with good fruit. Nicely structured; long and concentrated. Promises well.
Vincent Dancer Pommard les Pézerolles – £275.00
Quite an elegant nose. Ditto palate; with rich but elegant fruit. Very supple with appealing fruit; and surprisingly ready.
Domaine Follin-Arbelet Romanée-St.-Vivant, grand cru – £1426.00
A more structured style than some. Smoky oak on nose, quite structured but very elegant and stylish. quite closed understated fruit, but a deceptively long and lingering finish. Promises well, as it should at the price.
Domaine Robert Chevillon NSG, aux Chaignots, 1er cru – £249.00
Quite firm structured nose; ditto on palate, with a backbone of tannin. Some underlying raspberry notes on the finish.
Robert Chevillon NSG, les Cailles, 1er cru – £309.00
Firm smoky oak on nose. Some raspberry fruit on the palate with some vegetal notes. Remarkably accessible fruit, but some fresh acidity. Long and appealing
Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Rouge – £97.00
Quite firm liquorice nose; ditto on the palate, with some attractive fruit and a backbone of tannins. Good value.
Domaine André Geoffrey Fixin la Croix Blanche – £151.00 Delicate nose; quite rounded ripe vegetal fruit; very appealing already.
André Geoffrey Vosne-Romanée, les Champs Perdrix – £245.00
Quite firm nose; ditto on the palate, with appealing fruit and a firm backbone of tannin.
André Geoffrey Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos St. Jacques, 1er cru – £463.00 Firm nose, with solid fruit underneath. Attractive structured fruit on the palate. Nicely balanced; both elegant and powerful at the same time.
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny – £210.00
Quite rich oak on nose; ditto on the palate, with rich fruit. Quite concentrated, with balancing acidity and tannin. For Mme Barthod, the vintage has turned out better than she initially expected.
Chambolle-Musigny, les Fuées, 1er cru – £368.00
An intriguing nose, with different nuances, raspberry, liquorice and oak. Soft tannins on the palace, with lovely fruit and a stylish delicate finish. Very elegant and surprisingly ready.
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Clos de Vougeot, grand cru – £426.00
Quite firm spicy nose. Ditto on the palate with some wonderfully ripe fruit and layers of flavour.
Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes-Mares, grand cru – £426.00
Lovely rich complex layers on the nose. Elegant fruit on the palate, very stylish with layers of flavour. Long.
Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos de Bèze, grand cru – £516.00
Quite structured, with layers of flavour, liquorice and raspberry fruit. Good backbone of tannin. Should develop well
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles
Deep ruby. Very sweet cherry/strawberry nose. Lacks some depth. Palate has lovely balance, fine tannins. More elegant and sensuous. Very suave on the finish. Excellent. 21/25
Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières
Deep ruby. Dense black fruits. Cherry/mulberry. Very soft supple palate. Good grip. Chewy. Very sweet ripe fruits. Feminine. Very charming. Superb. 20/25
Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St.-Georges
Very little on nose. Blackcherry. Moderate intensity – smooth tannins. Pure with a mint note. Tobacco notes. Good complexity – this is a fine village cru. 18/25
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Les Fournières
* Pale garnet core. Lovely intense nose. Tarry, cranberry scented. Fine definition. Good grip. Tannic. Masculine with fine concentration. Very up-front and brash. Nice rustic finish. Excellent. 20/25. £210.00
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Aloxe-Corton
Nose is quite muted. Earthy. Nice sweet PN edge. Again, lovely clean fruits. Fine definition with excellent concentration. Good grip. Rustic, bold wine with a lush sweet finish. Excellent stuff. 19/25
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves
* A lovely floral, feminine nose. Rose petals, cherry. Lovely soft smooth tannins. Ripe inky fruits. Very supple. Quality shines though. Elegant with good length. Top wine. Fantastic value. 22/25. £288.00
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Chorey-lès-Beaune – La Piece du Chapître
Lovely nose of cherry/strawberry. Fragrant and defined. Fine tannins. Well-integrated oak. Very crisp, rounded with good concentration. Quite rich and full. Very strong cherry flavoured finish. Superb. 20/25
Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton Grand Cru Les Bressandes
Deep garnet. Quite refined on nose. Sweet cherry with blackcurrant underneath. Very smooth tannins. Supple. Good complexity but not as much as the 99. Again a rustic finish. Excellent. 21/25
Domaine Vicomte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Villages – Clos du Château
Monopole. Deep garnet. Quite reductive on the nose: burnt rubber notes. Palate is quite meaty with fine robust tannins. Animal. Lacks smoothness. Quite individual A bruiser of a wine! 19/25
Domaine Vicomte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Villages – La Colombière
Light garnet colour. Lovely savoury nose: notes of figs/herbs. Med-bodied. Tannic with dark tarry black fruits. Almost austere. Very broody. Perhaps too much stalk? Fine but needs 3-5 yrs. 19/25
Domaine Ghislain Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées
More muted on the nose. Slightly less refined than Veroilles. Palate is more robust, animally with hints of truffles. Lacks some vigour. 5-6 yrs for this wine. Veroilles will drink earlier. 19/25
Domaine Ghislain Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Veroilles
Med garnet. Lovely cherry-cheesecake nose. Very fragrant & refined. Palate reflects the nose. Well-integrated. Smooth and svelte. Not complex but feminine and seductive. Very fine. 19/25
Domaine Ghislain Barthod Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Medium garnet core. Simple sweet strawberry nose. Well-balanced. Slightly coarse. Firm tannins. Lacks some cohesion now so needs another year or so. Good. 17/25
Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Echézeaux
Moderate garnet. Deep damson nose. Broody. Palate has lovely balance with silky tannins. Very fine for an Echezeaux but too expensive. A rich plummy finish. Classy but is it that good??? 20/25
Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Savigny-lès-Beaune
Garnet hue. Very alcoholic – almost volatile nose. Palate is quite spicy but coarse. Lacks focus and definition. Seems to have been fermented at too higher temp for me. Funky. 18/25
Domaine Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée
Medium ruby. Very high-toned black fruits. Liquorice. Chewy tannins. Gamey. Quite alcoholic. Very plummy with lacks V-R’s smoothness and elegance. I’ve tasted better V-R’s in this vintage. 18/25
Domaine Andre Geoffrey Fixin Villages Rouge – La Croix Blanche
* Ruby core. Wonderful pure cherry nose. Fragrant. Good balance on the palate. Spicy – almost Rhône-like. High-toned fruits. Good length. Another fine Fixin 2001. 19/25. £151.00
Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Very little on nose. Sweet strawberry/cranberry. Crunchy tannins. Rustic. Lacks depth. Seems sulky. Lacks vitality. Fine but not exciting and again, very expensive. 18/25
Domaine Bruno Clair Morey-St.-Denis – En la Rue de Vergy
Very sweet/floral nose. Pure and quite sensuous. Slightly dry on palate. Firm structure. Dusty tannins. Rustic. Lacks the subtlety on the Fixin but still very well-crafted. 18/25
Domaine Bruno Clair Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode
Light garnet core. Nice fragrant nose – tennis balls! Medium body. Chewy tannins. Tough now. Tannic. Fine sweet finish. Very fine though not as good as previous vintages. 18/25
Domaine Bruno Clair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Champs Perdrix
Very muted nose. Hint of cheese/cherry. Smooth palate – tight & focussed. This lacks the voluptuousness of V-R. Awkward – a stroppy wine! Needs a few years. 17/25
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
* Deep ruby. Potent fecal nose. Horseshit. Palate has lovely balance with seemless tannins. So smooth. Voluptuous. Sweet cherry fruits. Long finish. A very sexy seductive Pinot Noir. Superb. 22/25. £426.00
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Bèze
Moderate garnet. Damp earth – muted. Cherry/ strawberry notes. Fine attacking palate – angular. Lacks the power of Bonnes-Mares or Vougeot – a but disappointing after those superb wines. 5-6 yrs. 18/25
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Muted earthy nose. Blackcurrant. Needs time. Palate is dense, chewy tannins. Medium-full body. Very broody. Black dusty fruits. Fine definition on the finish. An excellent Vougeot. 21/25
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Pale garnet. Lacklustre nose. Blueberry with a touch of mint. Very sweet, supple palate with good acidity. Fine ripeness but a little monotonous. Doesn’t really go anywhere. Drink 3-4 yrs. 17/25
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin
Moderate garnet. Ripe earthy, compact nose. Soft palate that lacks some structure. Too soft and supple and lacking vigour at the finish. Drink soon. 16/25
Bouchard Père et Fils reds
by Rosemary George MW:
Mid colour; some liquorice fruit on nose; Quite a firm palate with some acidity and tannin. Quite refreshing.
Monthélie les Duresses, 1er cru
Quite firm smoky liquorice nose and palate. Quite sturdy and structured.
Le Corton, grand cru
Some smoky oak and fruit on nose. Quite sturdy, oaky fruit and tannin and palate. Structured and long, with good potential.
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Saint Marc, 1er cru
Firm nose and a structured palate, with firm raspberry fruit and a backbone of tannin.
Nuits-Saint-Georges les Cailles, 1er cru
Quite firm closed nose; quite firm liquorice fruit; tannin and a touch of spice. Medium weight and balanced. Should develop nicely.
O.E Loeb reds
by Rosemary George MW:
Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully Rouge Maizières – £95.00
Quite firm raspberry fruit; ditto on palate, with some tannin. Quite elegant
Domaine Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune, aux Grands Liards – £135.00
Delicate nose, a hint vegetal. Dry raspberry Pinot Noir on palate. Quite firm and should develop well.
Domaine Arlaud Morey-St.-Denis – £145.00
Quite firm oak on nose. Ditto on palate; structured with potential.
Domaine Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin – £TBC
Light colour; quite elegant nose; ditto on plate, with some firm fruit and potential.
Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er cru Clos St. Jacques – £TBC
Firm quite dry oak; ditto on palate, with some stylish fruit. Elegant and showing considerable potential to develop.
by Neal Martin:
Domaine Michel Magnien Morey St. Denis – Très Girard
Soft cherry fruit. Rounded and plump. But palate is structured with firm tannins. Well-balanced. Quite austere on the finish. Earthy finish. Good length. 4-8 yrs. 19/25
Domaine Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanée Villages – Les Hautes Maizières
Nose is closed. Simple Pinot Noir aroma. Palate is tannic, backward with typical high-toned black fruits. Quite dry on the finish. Not as well balanced as the 1er Cru’s but still very fine. 19/25
by Neal Martin, tasted in Burgundy:
Domaine Anne Gros Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Very fine ripe cherry/strawberry fruits. Nothing complex but very pure and soft. Fine early drinking. 18/25
Domaine Anne Gros Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Pure flashy red fruits on the powerful nose. Very strong palate. Well-integrated with a stylish stony quality. Good mid-palate with hint of tinned prunes! This will develop marvellously. 22/25
Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg
Blackcurrant and cherries. Very complex palate with silky smooth tannins. Chocolate & blackcherry. Stunning focus and intensity on the finish. Fabulous wine. 21/25
Domaine Anne Gros Vosne-Romanée
A woody nose with toffee notes. Very fleshy and ripe. Cherry and blackcurrant fruits. Very well integrated. Should be showing well in 2-3 yrs. 19/25
Domaine Gros Frère et Souer Clos de Vougeot
Very difficult to assess at early stage. Lots of finesse on the palate though. Fine rounded red fruits. Very difficult to conclude now. 19/25
Domaine Gros Frère et Souer Grands Echézeaux
A savoury mushroomy/cep nose. Good depth and more structured than other vintages. Fine savoury finish. Should prove another fine wine. 20/25
Domaine Gros Frère et Souer Richebourg
Slightly herbaceous nose. Green pepper. Fine ripe palate with pure black fruits maybe lacking the weight of the 2000. Needs another 2 years to assess properly. 20/25
Domaine Gros Frère et Souer Vosne-Romanée
Chunky raspberry fruits. Good acidity. A bit coarse. Very difficult to assess with the malolactic still to finish. Should make fine early drinking. 19/25