The relative youth of the English sparkling wine industry means it’s a tad two early to be declaring which terroirs and which houses stand-out as the ‘Grand Crus’ of the scene. But it would be difficult to argue against Nyetimber as a top contender; in the vanguard for home-grown wines, Nyetimber has achieved global recognition for quality. From mineral-rich greensand and chalk soils across estate vineyards in West Sussex, Hampshire and Kent, a range of sparkling wines is produced by winemakers Cherie Spriggs and Brad Greatrix, who have been with Nyetimber since 2007.
1086 and All That
The first vines of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier were planted in 1988, clearly the owners determined to emulate the great wines of Champagne where soils and climate are very similar. The Nyetimber range tops-out with two Prestige Cuvées, 1086 and 1086 Prestige Rosé, produced only in exceptional years. The name marks the date when the estate was recorded in the Domesday Book over 1,000 years ago.
These are ambitions wines, priced at £150 and £175 per bottle respectively. That puts them firmly in Champagne’s Prestige Cuvée territory, similarly priced to Dom Perignon or Comtes de Champagne. A very strict selection of hand-picked grapes is earmarked for the cuvées, and the wines given extended time on lees – up to 10 years before disgorgement. The concept of 1086 was inspired by Eric Heerema, Nyetimber’s Owner and CEO. He believed that such bold cuvées would demonstrate the provenance and ultimate quality that English sparkling wine could achieve.
The Wines
I would taste both the 2010 and 2013 editions of the 1086 blanc, and the 2013 rosé. Cherie Spriggs has said that her philosophy is “to keep the winemaking simple, and then the beautiful flavours that we are so blessed with can just naturally come through.” To that end these wines are in some ways understated. Nyetimber does not favour the use of barrels for its base wines, and avoids oxidative conditions, so the crispness and clarity throughout the range is part of the house style, extending to the 1086 bottlings.
(2024) From a year described as 'temperate', this comes from the best vineyards parcels, composed of 51% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and 9% Pinot Meunier. It is Brut with 9.4g/l and spent more than five years on the lees in Nyetimber's cellars. There are immediately complex autolytic notes, pastry and a touch of toast, truffle and umami/meaty nuances. In the mouth the mousse is firm and rich, and there's an overall impression of taut minerality. Fruit is lemony and limey, a hint of spice or cedar in there, and the racy line of acidity keeps it keenly focused. A decisive wine that will relax a little more with cellaring, but is racy and thrilling now.
(2024) The 2010 blend is 45% Chardonnay, 44% Pinot Noir and 11% Pinot Meunier, my bottle disgorged January 2020 after almost 10 years on the lees with 9.7gl residual sugar. This is absolutely fresh - in some ways seeming more fresh than the 2013. The foamy cushion of mousse subsides to reveal distinct biscuit and buttery notes to small, redcurrant-like fruit and citrus peel. That toasty element - rarely found in pink sparkling wines - gives a richness and softness on the palate. A much more crisply-focused raspberry and lemon thrust of fruit and acidity asserts on the mid palate, leading the way into a shimmering acid finish, the dosage just softening the edges nicely. At time of review The Wine Society's price of £120 is very keen.
(2024) The new vintage of Nyetimber's Prestige Cuvée is an assemblage, with 14% still Pinot Noir joining a blend of 64% Pinot Noir and 36% Chardonnay. It was fermented in stainless steel, with old oak barrels used to age the red wine portion. It spent almost six years aging on the lees, and was held back an additional three and half years post disgorgement. Peachy-pink in colour, aromas are of raspberry and strawberry, but there's a fascinating nutmeg spice and chestnut background. In the mouth, again raspberry giving a tart, dry appeal, a streak of Seville orange acidity lengthening the finish. The mousse does add a cushion of textural softness, but this is decisive, savoury and complex wine.
Bewl Valley Blanc de Noirs was my surprise English Sparkler this year,
Though I tasted some wines from Bewl Water Vineyards last year, I have not tasted this one: so many new names on the English sparkling wine scene.