The Clos Marey-Monge is a large, 20-hectare Monopole vineyard in Pommard, Burgundy. This walled plot has a single owner, the Château de Pommard. It is an iconic and historic property, given a new lease of life since its purchase by American businessman Michael Baum in 2016. Since then, a whirlwind of renovation has touched every aspect of the winery, vineyards and wines.
This tasting was to celebrate the first organically-certified vintage of the Clos Marey-Monge Monopole. Conversion to organic viticulture was begun by winemaker Emmanuel Sala in 2008, and he is confident that full biodynamic certification will follow shortly. All ploughing is by horse, and there is a programme to encourage biodiversity within the walls of the Clos. In the past few years, 400 trees have been planted for example.
The Clos has been studied over the years by Emmanuel, who has identified seven indivudual plots based on soils, plus their position on the site’s gentle slope.
One Becomes Eight
Following on from Emmauel’s studies, the decision was taken to bottle wines from the seven individual plots within Marey-Monge. Emmanuel says: “Some of theses are of Grand Cru quality.” The cuvées include the Grands Esprits and Nicolas-Joseph tasted here, as well as the cuvée Simone which I tasted previously. Emmanuel considers it to be one of his ‘Grand Crus’. Owner Michael suggests that a horizontal tasting of the seven wines is a mesmerising experience: “You see the differences, and understand the ‘layers’ that go into the Monople.” The Monopole bottling, also tasted here, is an assemblage of fruit from across the different plots.
I continue to be impressed by the recent wines from Château de Pommard. The entire operation appears to have been fully revitalised under the partnership of Sala and Baum, with very noticeable improvements from what was once a slightly under-performing property. A large range of wines is produced, including Marey-Monge, but also from other holdings as well as négociant wines uner the Carabello-Baum label. Michael Baum expressed his excitement about future developments about to come on stream, Intriguingly, these include a premium Aligoté project.
Château de Pommard opens to visitors daily for tours and tastings, without the need for an appointment.