Ponzi Vineyards, Oregon

For a detailed introduction to Oregon and its wines, see my extensive report from a tour there. In that report I say ‘before I say more about Oregon…I think I’d better tell you where it is. A straw poll of friends brought forth suggestions from America’s mid-west to “somewhere close to Boston?” In fact Oregon, the 10th largest of the United States, lies on the Pacific coast immediately north of California.’

Dick Ponzi on tractorEstablished by Oregon couple Dick and Nancy Ponzi, Ponzi Vineyards’ first plantings were in 1968, making them one of the founding wineries of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Their ethos of a low-intervention, natural approach to both winemaking and viticulture was shared by other pioneers, the early wine scene in Oregon having something of an alternative philosophy for its time.

It was drinking a red Burgundy in the 1960s that was Dick Ponzi’s nirvana moment. He started to look for similar wines being made in the USA, but at that time found nothing that had the lightness and finesse of Burgundian Pinot Noir. The search for suitable land where he could plant his own vineyards began, focused on a terroir that might make such a style possible. The relatively cool and wet climate of northern Oregon beckoned. The Ponzi’s always celebrated their individual vineyard plots and the legacy of her parents was carried on by daughter, Luisa, who eventually took over as winemaker.

A new Regime

In 2021, Ponzi was acquired by Groupe Bollinger in the Champagne family’s first foray outside of France. I met with winemaker, Max Bruening, who has worked in California and New Zealand, and Jean-Baptiste Rivail, representing Groupe Bollinger. Recently appointed as head winemaker, Max had spent the previous eight years working alongside Luisa Ponzi, who is still credited as ‘Legacy Winemaker.’

The Ponzi estate lies within the Laurelwood District AVA of Willamette, itself part of the broader Chehalem Mountains AVA. The Laurelwood soil is found exclusively in the northern edges of the Willamette, windblown loess over basalt. Max explained that precise soil composition changes with elevation: at lower elevations the loess layer is up to six feet deep, while at higher elevations it can be as thin as six inches. That basalt influence at elevation is said to give darker, richer flavours in wines.

Terroir Legacy

bottlesThere are several single vineyards, and winemaker Max says he firmly believes that moving higher and closer to the coast with new plantings will be key as climate changes. The Paloma vineyard, planted in 2012 and still owned by the family, sits at around 900 feet and a bottling was tasted here.

Jean-Baptiste was keen to point out that the Ponzi’s terroir-driven philosophy continues under Bollinger. The sustainably focused, gravity-flow winery that the Ponzi’s constructed in 2008 is largely unchanged, though in 2022 another 100 acres of vineyard was added to the original 140 acres, making Ponzi Oregon’s largest vineyard holder.

The Wines

(2024) From the Laurelwood District AVA, this is a carefully oaked Chardonnay that majors on freshness and medium-bodied, quite Chablis-like restraint - but with power too. There are chamomile notes, apple, and just a background of cedary nuttiness. In the mouth it has some weight and a bit of intensity, but it is lean and lemony overall, again little almond and honeyed nutty note just softening the firm citrus and salts drive of the finish.
(2024) Tavola is part of the small range that introduces Ponzi, made with a combination of estate and purchased fruit from across Willamette. Max calls this a 'fun' wine and a 'pizza wine'. Nicely pale and transparent, it is leafy and perfumed, touches of pot-pourri spices and red fruits. The palate has brightness and plenty of drive. It is medium-bodied, and the mid-palate fleshes out with creamy and sweet berries. Tannins and acid combine to again add a sparky, lemony freshness to the finish. Note price and stockist for previous vintage at time of review.
(2024) Fruit is 100% Laurelwood, a small amount from local growers who planted their vineyards with Laurelwood cuttings. Fermentation included 10% whole cluster, fermented in small lots. It was aged in French oak barrels (30% new) for 10 months. Deep cherry touched by briar and spice, there's a tiny edge of sweet vanilla and something floral. Beautifully sweet as it strikes the palate, this has succulence and an undertow of orange and sour Chinese plum. Tannins are moderate and creamy rather than forceful, giving this a long, spiced fruit finish. Again, stockist and price for previous vintage at time of review.
(2024) Fruit was fermented using 40% whole clusters and manually punched down twice a day. The wine was aged in French oak barrels (40% new), for 20 months. There's a polish to this wine aromatically, a sheen of chestnut and briar over black cherry, but a suggestion of minty herbs, rose-hip and real fragrance. Medium-bodied and supple, the fruit is in the red spectrum, but dense and fleshy, juicy red plum and a lift of raspberry to the acidity. The oak here is very classy; polished and dark, giving this some spice and cedar, and with taut, creamy tannins, good length and finesse. Price and stockist for a previous vintage at time of review.
(2024) From a single vineyard planted at 800 to 900 feet, the black fruit and peppery spice component is striking. Blackcurrant and blueberry are streaked with cedar and an edge of leafiness. At the same time there is a touch of dark caramel or chocolate in the background. The palate is stunning, with so much supple, fleshy sweetness, a velvet mouthfeel with so much spice and hints of meatiness and something of herbs and truffle in the background. Long, meaty and rich, but with such a focus between creamy tannins and precise acidity. A special arrangement sees a parcel of this limited edition, normally allocated wine exclusively for the UK market. No retail stockists listed.

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