Potel Burgundies from Tanners

Nicolas Potel is the owner of Domaine de Bellene, an estate farming 22 hectares of old vines across the Côte d’Or. Like many in Burgundy, he is also a négociant, releasing wines under the Roche de Bellene label.

Nicolas’s father, Gérard Potel, was part owner and manager/winemaker for Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay. He was a leading figure in Burgundy, and many of the négociant relationships Nicolas has with growers today were forged in his father’s era. But it’s been a story of many twists and turns for Nicolas Potel.

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or was sold on his father’s death in 1996, so Nicolas formed his own négociant business. Nicolas Potel wines hit the ground running, earning a stellar reputation over ensuing years. Needing investment, he formed a partnership with Cottin Frères, owners of Labouré-Roi. The relationship soured, and in 2009 Nicolas quit, leaving behind the rights to his own name. Since then, the Domaine de Bellene and Roche de Bellene have been his business. A few wines are still released under the Nicolas Potel brand, but have nothing to do with Nicolas Potel the man.

Nicolas does represent a new generation of French winemaker, having traveled extensively, making wine with Moss Wood, Mount Mary and Leeuwin Estate in Australia, Dehlinger in California, as well as Burgundy experience working at Roumier in Chambolle-Musigny. That’s quite a roll call of high end experience.

three-bellene-winesTanners wine merchant carries various wines made by Potel, both négociant and domaine bottlings. This tasting of three wine features the 2021 vintage, which was severely affected by frost in the spring, which resulted in historically low yields.

All are Vieilles Vignes, or old vines, in this case between 30 and 70 years old. At time of writing the wines are available from Tanners and through other fine wine merchants.

The Wines

(2024) From three parcels of vines that are between 50 and 70 years old, this was made with 100% whole bunches in the ferment. Dry, cranberry and briar notes on the nose are classic, a little truffle and forest floor development and a touch vanilla perhaps. In the mouth plenty of freshness but sweet fruit concentration too. Again cranberry, redcurrant, certainly in the tart but juicy red fruit spectrum. Spices and a bolstering touch of deeper oak add to the crunch of the fruit on the finish in a rather stylish way.
(2024) From the village where Nicolas grew up, fermented with native yeasts and age in barrels, 20% of which were new. This ramps up the floral and perfumed ripeness of fruit on the nose, a glimpse of an almost minty intensity before more truffle and sous-bois characters. In the mouth it has richness compared to the Savigny, weight and creaminess. The fruit falls more into the black fruit spectrum, but still with juiciness and a roughening edge of spicy tannin that adds some grip. Balanced and long, this is very good.
(2024) Moving into the Côte de Nuits, this comes from vineyards fully converted to organic farming. The vines were planted in 1952. The rich garnet colour precedes aromas that are firm, spicy and earthy, a touch of vegetal character is perfectly tuned, not dominating the savoury fruit quality. In the mouth it offers plenty of structure with a backbone of tannin and keen acid grip suggesting it will cellar for several years more. Through the mid-palate fruit and texture builds, ripeness and suppleness. A very harmonious finish here, balance is impeccable.

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