Rosé Round-up 2024

I’ve published my Rosé Round-up every year since 2009. Fifteen years and hundreds of wines later this trawl through 40 of the world’s pink wines, from 12 different countries, remains a decent sample of what’s on UK wine shelves. As always, I keep an eye open for trends in this category. There’s certainly no let-up in the runaway success of the pale colour and subtle flavour of the Provençal style. If not from Provence, almost all the wines here, from Lebanon to Australia, were influenced by that model.

Two trends for 2024 are for fancy bottles, and for super-premium (i.e. expensive) rosés. I rather like the fancy bottle trend; not only is wine a category that often lacks innovation in that regard, but with so many of these being rather similar the bottle at least allows for individuality.

There are several rosés in this roundup costing well over £20, and in some cases, over £50 per bottle. That would have been hard to imagine 15 or 20 years ago, but I guess Château d’Esclans with their £100 ‘Garrus’ changed the playing field. It’s notable that luxury goods house LVMH bought a majority share in Esclans in 2019, and two of the £50 wines here also come via LVMH.

Judging Rosé

The cold ferment and brief maceration needed to create the pale Provence style does lead to a certain ‘sameness’ about the wines. So the task with some of these wines is to tease out the nuances that elevate the best above the crowd.

Sparkling

(2024) The Blend here is 35% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier, plus 30% Pinotage. It's an 'assemblage' with 2% made as a Pinot Noir red wine. It was bottled in 2018 and disgorged in March 2021 with residual sugar of 9.2g/l. Nicely meaty and yeasty on the nose, there's an umami aspect to small red berries. In the mouth the mousse is quite luxurious. There's a crispness with the zippy citrus acid core here, but that redcurrant and cranberry fruit character and hints of spice and meatiness gives mouthfeel and richness.
(2024) From a family owned and run producer, a Champagne with a delightfuly deep cerise colour coming from the addition of Pinot Noir made as a red base wine into the blend. Gorgeous rose-hip and cherry finesse and elegance runs through the nose and palate, a little toast, and dazzling raspberry-sharp acidity to balance. This is Brut, with around 9g/l dosage, but it finishes gastronomic and savoury. A bargain at Mann Fine Wine's price - other retailers sell for £10 per bottle more.
(2024) The Goring family's West Sussex estate, Wiston, was planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir in 2006. This wine spent 42 months on lees and was bottled with 8g/l dosage. Quite a deep bronze colour, an indication that this is an 'assemblage' with 15% vinified as red wine, there's a lovely rhubarb and hint of truffle depth to tangy raspberry fruit. The palate marries vibrant Seville orange, more raspberry and a hint of juicy strawberry, but with excellent acidity never wavering at the core. Long and delicious from ace winemaker Dermot Sugrue.
(2024) From Dorset a sparkling blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay with just 2g/l dosage. Made using the traditional method, 50% is fermented in neutral barrels with natural yeasts, before the second ferment for a minimum of 24 months on the lees. This bottle mostly from the 2019 vintage, with 18% reserve wines and disgorged 11th July 2023. Lots of foamy mousse and a very delicate mother of pearl to peach colour. Quite a lot of leesy, bready autolysis here giving some toast and cinder toffee, then a real mouth-filling wine with plenty of ripe berry sweetness, but the low dosage and thrust of lemony acidity gives real zip and real gastronomic appeal.
(2024) The 2010 blend is 45% Chardonnay, 44% Pinot Noir and 11% Pinot Meunier, my bottle disgorged January 2020 after almost 10 years on the lees with 9.7gl residual sugar. This is absolutely fresh - in some ways seeming more fresh than the 2013. The foamy cushion of mousse subsides to reveal distinct biscuit and buttery notes to small, redcurrant-like fruit and citrus peel. That toasty element - rarely found in pink sparkling wines - gives a richness and softness on the palate. A much more crisply-focused raspberry and lemon thrust of fruit and acidity asserts on the mid palate, leading the way into a shimmering acid finish, the dosage just softening the edges nicely. At time of review The Wine Society's price of £120 is very keen.
(2024) The new vintage of Nyetimber's Prestige Cuvée is an assemblage, with 14% still Pinot Noir joining a blend of 64% Pinot Noir and 36% Chardonnay. It was fermented in stainless steel, with old oak barrels used to age the red wine portion. It spent almost six years aging on the lees, and was held back an additional three and half years post disgorgement. Peachy-pink in colour, aromas are of raspberry and strawberry, but there's a fascinating nutmeg spice and chestnut background. In the mouth, again raspberry giving a tart, dry appeal, a streak of Seville orange acidity lengthening the finish. The mousse does add a cushion of textural softness, but this is decisive, savoury and complex wine.

£10 and under

(2024) 100% Bobal, this comes from Utiel-Requena, just inland from Valencia. It's lightweight stuff, harvested at night from higher altitude vineyards and made in stainless steel. It's a vivid, cotton candy pink with cherry lips and Bazooka Joe bubblegum character, marked as dry on the label but with a bit of residual sugar sweetness. It's far from sophisticated, perhaps akin to a Mateus Rosé without the spritz, but if that appeals it's cheap as chips at Aldi.
(2024) This Chilean wine is an unusual blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc, the light peach/orange colour and hint of red berries coming from Pinot Noir. Aromatically, small redcurrant and cranberry notes join racier lemon withba touch of orange peel. The palate is fairly straightforward with citrus juiciness and a dry finish.
(2024) From Lisboa, this is mostly the local Castelão, along with 20% Tinta Roriz and 20% Syrah. The colourful label, from a joyful painting by street artist Hauke Vagt, sets the tone for an easy drinking but crisp and refreshing wine, pale salmon in colour and with a juicy strawberry and citrus palate. The picture here is fun, but actually very nicely balanced and juicy stuff.
(2024) An IGP Pays d’Oc blend of Grenache and 20% Cinsault, this pale salmon-pink wine seems well priced to me at £9.30 per bottle. The redcurrant fruit mingles with lime and just a hint of the exotic on the nose, before a palate that has a bon-bon touch of strawberry, but it is not sweet, finishing with a nice cut of citrus acidity and its 12.5% alcohol adding to the feeling of freshness.
(2024) Ramón Bilbao's pink Rioja is a blend of 80% Garnacha and 20% Viura, coming from specially selected vineyards planted at between 550 and 770 metres altitude. Medium pale with a peachy hue, lots of confectionery and estery notes, hints of banana, orange and exotic fruit. In the mouth the wine is dry, quite pithy lemon fruit and acidity dominate at first, though it has a clean watermelon lightness and sour plum freshness. Quite fruity, but delicate.
(2024) A Vin de France wine with 12.5% alcohol, this has a moderately pale peachy-pink colour. The aroma is a touch sherbetty, with a fairly neutral raspberry note. It's a little bit rough this, with tutti fruitti flavours and some sweetness and rather raw acidity. Not a big fan of this one personally. £7.99 mixed six and Scottish price.

Under £20

(2024) This zero percent drink started off life as a blend of Airen and Tempranillo from La Mancha, with the alcohol subsequently removed. It is blended with natural ingredients including elderflower and ginger. The nose is fairly neutral, with a little hint of something herbal but not much in the way of fruit. In the mouth, like all such products, it just feels dilute and rather anonymous; there's a lemony acidity and again some herbal flavours and a hint of redcurrant.
(2024) Rogers & Rufus is a partnership between English entrepreneur Rufus Clevely and Australian Rogers Hill-Smith - you may recognise the Hill-Smith name as owners of Yalumba and its associated brands. The wine was designed as a summery, lunch-time sipper with only 11.5% alcohol, and is made from unirrigated bush-vine Grenache in the Barossa Valley. It's an homage to Provence, though the nose has a little more passion fruit and even nuances of lychee than might be found in the south of France, the palate bright and peachy but shimmering with an elegant, stony acidity that leaves it bone-dry in the finish. A successful rendition of this style. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas. A few stockists have it a bit cheaper by the six-bottle case.
(2024) One of the palest and most refreshing, almost white wine-like wines of this year's crop, this Languedoc wine is Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, with the 'secret' of Mourvèdre, a variety less commonly found in rosés of the south. Very delicate summer blossom and lime aromas, with a pretty and rose-like perfume. On the palate only the faint suggestion of red fruits in a wine that has plenty of citrus acidity but no lack of texture or softening mid-palate fruit. Rather lovely.
(2024) South Africa's Warwick Estate has chosen to make this wine from 100% Pinotage, and it works well. The colour is pale pink with a hint of gold, and aromas floral, bright, suggesting raspberry and citrus. With only 11.5% alcohol it has plenty of zippy acidity to cleanse the palate, while the pulpy, soft summer fruits fill-out the mid-palate.
(2024) One of the wines here with a little more depth to the colour, and an interesting blend of organic Pinot Noir and Garnacha (Grenache) from Penedès in northern Spain. Delicate orange, blossom and spice on the nose is a point of difference, then the palate shows some definite sweetness, strawberry and passionfruit flavours, lemon, and a nicely tart raspberry lick of acidity. Easy drinking fruity stuff, with a bit of personality.
(2024) The Rosé is a new addition to the Mouton-Cadet line-up, from a vineyard of organically farmed Merlot in Bordeaux. It's a crunchy and aromatic wine, very dry and gastronomic, with a burst of Seville orange to the fruit. The palate has some intense small red berry savouriness and very good acidity. This 2021 drinking very nicely.
(2024) A rosé from Rioja Alavesa, 100% Tempranillo, wirh a relatively deep colour. There's a jammy cherry ripeness to this, plenty of fruit sweetness moving into strawberry. Quite weighty in texture, but balance is good with sufficient acidity to offset the sweet fruit that could otherwise verge on the slightly cloying. No UK retail stockists at time of review.
(2024) A bit of an old favourite of both mine and FromVineyardsDirect, this Côtes de Provence pink from the Famille Negrel is mostly Grenache and Syrah. There's a buoyant, lifted watercolour paint-box note on the nose, small red berry fruits are attractive, precise and crisp. In the mouth there's actually bags of flavour here: it is quite robustly fruity, some real concentration to the fruit, but that bracing core of salty and lemony acidity, maybe touching onto a bitter orange, powers through the long, balanced finish.
(2024) Re-energised after the country gained independence in the early 90s, Georgia's Tblivino is one of the better known names on export markets, though this rosé is a new wine for me. Deeper in colour than most wines in this report, redcurrant and raspberry on the nose, before the palate showing some of Saperavi's tannin and gravelly bite, to give this gastronomic appeal.
(2024) This organic Pays d'Oc blends Grenache and Cinsault in a distinctly pale, Provençal style. Loads of rose-hip, raspberry and bubblegum aromas. Very nice palate, the crunch of raspberry and zip of lemon and lime, but that floral, bubblegum character is there. Acid is really nicely balanced.
(2024) An organic certified, AOP Faugères wine from the Languedoc blending 40% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 20% Syrah grapes. From higher altitude vineyards its and attractively pale coral colour, with gentle apricot and rose-hip, a touch of watermelon. In the mouth it is dry and has plenty of acidity, a light saline character and the dry, small red berry fruit adds a little robustness to the mid-palate. Stylish.
(2024) An IGP Côtes de Thongue wine that blends Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino), from volcanic soils. Peachy-pink in colour and a sherbetty lemon zest nose, cool, clear and subtle. Very fresh, crisp and racy on the palate. Would you guess it was a white wine if blindfolded? Maybe, a hint of strawberry and raspberry, but free-flowing citrus and just a hint of peppery spice carries this nicely.
(2024) The noble Barone Ricasoli of Chianti Classico fame makes this pale, peachy pink by blending Sangiovese and Merlot. Attractively packaged, aromas are subtle and citrussy, raspberry and a touch of rose-hip and herbs are all very delicate. On the palate that crisp and linear style might make you think this was a white wine if blindfolded, but lightly smoky berry fruits, touched by herbs and spice, move into that refreshing lemony acidity.
(2024) In its very fancy bottle and with a super pale colour this is a Provence ringer, but actually from the Languedoc. It's one of the most vibrant, intense wines of its style in this year's round-up, peach, pink fig and strawberry among the brightly fruity aromas. The palate follows through, the keen stripe of rhubarb-like acidity flashing through the ripe red fruits. Crisp, fruit-filled, distinctive and impressive.
(2024) And here we go again: though the track record for this wine is not as long as some of the others, the first time I tasted it being the 2022 vintage, for me this rosé steps up a gear. It is literally overflowing with strawberry cup, summer aromas, plenty of floral highlights, rose-hip and lychee (though mostly Pinot Noir, I believe small proportions of aromatic white varieties are blended in). In the mouth a little bit of residual sugar gives it even more of a summery, forget all your troubles character, that buoyant fruit nicely sliced through by a zesty acidity. A fabulous little summer pink to serve well chilled.
(2024) Nice and unusual to have a delicate, 11% rosé from the volcanic island of Madeira, made from the local Tinta Negra Mole grape. The colour is a light to medium salmon pink, and it's a very fragrant wine with flowers and pert red berries, a sense of minerality too. On the palate juicy and quite creamy, a pulpy strawberry fruit quality comes through, but it keeps that spritely mineral crispness.
(2024) A pale and typical Grenache-dominated blend, aromas are distinctly fruity - small red berries and raspberry berries- with just a suggestion of stony minerality. The palate hints at pomegranate and even passion fruit but the acidity is brisk and sweeps this up into a balanced and really quite powerful finish with acidity and a hint of tannic grip.
(2024) Another wine closed with the 'Vinolok' glass stopper on a rather romantic rose-embossed bottle, this blends Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan. It's a another finely detailed wine from Sainte Roseline, pale, peachy and fragrant, summer berries and herbs, a fresh and lightly grassy and floral aspect to this. On the palate the acidity and that grassiness give this gastronomic potential, those adding a bit of seriousness to the pretty peach and lime flavours.
(2024) An organic certified pink from specialist retailer Vintage Roots, from vineyards between St Tropez and Toulon. It's a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault and is one of the fruitiest, punchiest wines of this tasting. A little more depth to the colour than some, with passion fruit and peach, pulpy strawberry and a juicy cherry acidity. Ramps up the vibrancy to good effect.
(2024) 'Tall poppy syndrome' refers to the tendency for some people to cut successful entities 'down to size'. There's no doubt that the mega-brand of Whispering Angel suffers from that; some commentators claiming it is over-priced and intrinsically 'nothing special.' Having tasted the wine vintage after vintage for most of its 18 year history, I disagree and the 2023 is as good, if not better, than ever. Blended from old vine Grenache, Cinsault and Rolle, it's made in stainless-steel with lees-stirring. The peachy-pink colour heralds such an attractive nose, with watermelon and small red berries, passion fruit and downy peach skins. Dry but delightfully peachy and fresh, a hint of strawberry and then confit lemon is buoyant and rounded. That texture and fruit is extended by perfectly balanced acidity. Watch the video for more information.

Over £20

(2024) Lampe de Méduse in its striking genie's lamp bottle is a pale and attractive, organic certified rosé from clay and limestone soils. The blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Tibouren, Mourvèdre and Syrah has a strawberry shortcake nose, delightfully crammed with summery red berries. The palate has real vibrancy, ripe and punchy berries scythed through by salts and lemon acidity. Very good.
(2024) Up among the Languedoc's best rosés alongside the wine from Argali, this blends mostly Grenache from volcanic soils with Roussanne grown in vineyards surrounded by garrigue scrubland. A portion is also matured in oak barrels. Pale, coral-touched pink, it's a mineral and refined wine aromatically, some melon and delicate floral notes, a whisper of vanilla. In the mouth it has lovely texture, and the raciness of the taut, quite pithy acidity sits against really composed, lightly apricot and peach fruit. Tart red berries in the mix too, and finishes with just a hint of bittersweet nuttiness.
(2024) A blend of Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah, Lebanese producer Ixsir's winemaker Gabriel Rivero spent eight years at Sociando-Malet and says “IXSIR is fundamentally about new world winemaking in an old world country." With vineyards at 1,800m metres, each variety comes from a plot matched for climate and soil type. Pale, if not quite as pale in colour as some, it has plenty of fragrance, with watercolour paintbox and floral aromas, cherry and rose-hip. Quite a heady aromatic profile. The palate is dry, with a peachy, nectarine fruit, a little strawberry and good balance with a peach skin bite of a little grip, citrus acidity and good length.
(2024) A single vineyard rosé made with organically grown Pinot Noir, the colour is an elegant pale pink. The aromas open with a definite sense of gravelly, lightly truffled, classic Pinot character. A fragrant cherry and floral note comes through. In the mouth, the juiciest of blood orange fruit and acidity. There's a lime and orange peel sense of more savoury, textural character, but the acidity runs like a knife through this, giving a firm, taut length and a lightly spicy finish. No UK retailers at time of review.
(2024) Mostly Grenache, with 20% made up of Syrah, Cinsault and Tibouren this comes from the three main terroirs (schist, clay and sand) of Minuty’s own vineyards. 100% free run juice. Blush peach in colour, it has a fragrant nose, citrus peel, green herbs and a touch floral. In the mouth the acidity is bracing and mineral. Fruit moves from crunchy red apple to citrus, with a delicate red berry, summery sweetness just held nicely in check. Delightfully intricate stuff.
(2024) A new brand founded in 2022, which "aims to champion English wine and is all about quality, style and passion," apparently, this Pinot Noir rosé coming from vineyards on clay soils in Crouch End, Essex. It was made in old Burgundy barrels with lees stirring, and is dry with just 1.24g/l of residual sugar.  It is indeed pale, light bronze/pink with very attractive aromas, just a touch of vanilla pod but mostly floral and elegant red fruits and orange zest. Really lovely on the palate, with a feeling of purity, precision and delicate fruit sweetness, real pin-point lightly sherbetty strawberry, but a juicy and rather more strict core of citrus and salts acidity begins to elongate the finish. A very impressive, delicate and understated first release.
(2024) Galoupet is a £50 pink from the LVMH stable, conceived to be a little bit different from most other Provence rosés. The certified organic wine blends 52% Grenache with Tibouren, Rolle, Syrah and small amounts of Cinsault and Semillon. Packaged in a 70% recycled amber bottle it was also aged in larger French oak barrels. A touch deeper in colour than some, there's a hint of cedar and vanilla creaminess to this, some citrus and a melon rind sense of grip. A palate of bitter orange and taut red berries also carries the grip, through a touch of tannin and the higher alcohol (14%). Really quite different, and apparently ageworthy (the 2021 said to be drinking really well).
(2024) The 281 cuvée first appeared in 2015, with very small volumes made from Grenache vines with an average age of 25 years plus 5% each of Rolle and 5% Syrah. Unlike other £50+ rosés this sees no oak, and has delightfully vibrant but more orthodox white peach, cherry lips and paintbox aromas of cool ferment pinks. It is certainly refined and delicious, but whether the price makes sense compared to Minuty's other very fine rosés is a moot point.

5 comments

  1. I recently tasted Oumsiyat Soupir Vin Rose from Lebanon (Luvians)
    Delicious. £12.99 Recommended

    1. Thanks for the tip David. I have a couple of Lebanese roses from Chateau Ksara in my tasting pile which I will get to soon, but have yet to try this one.

  2. The Wine Society does a Corsican rose called Umanu which I can thoroughly recommend Tom, at an excellent price of £10.50 I think, made from 80% sciaccarellu and 20% cinsault. Well worth a try

      1. Proper “wine of the week” territory Tom, especially at that price point (and as the price of Provencal pinks continue to rise!

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *