September 2010 – Leflaive, Fief de la Brie, Secano, Grange Cochard

Top wines from last month in four price brackets.

under six pounds

Domaine Fief de la Brie, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie 2009
OK, slightly over budget at £6.90, but a terrific Melon de Bourgogne Muscadet wine and part of the rennaissance (I hope) for this appellation which can, and does, turn out some terrific stuff amongst a sea of more mediocre offerings. Lemony, bright but vibrant on the nose, this has lightly creamy notes, but great fruit focus. Great tang and vibrancy on the palate: apple and citrus, big pithy lemon acidity and delightfully refreshing. £6.90, Tanners.

under a tenner

Secano, Sauvignon Gris 2009, Chile
The Sauvignon Gris is a pink skinned mutation of the Blanc and is a variety that is gaining popularity fast not only here in Chile, but in Bordeaux and other areas too, because of its tendency to fuller, fruitier nature than Sauvignon Blanc. This example comes from the prime Leyda Valley on Chile’s coast, and has a terrific nose, punching though with Granny Smith apples, ripe, pungent pea-pod notes suggestions of a mineral, salty quality too. On the palate it is fabulously vivacious stuff, with loads of intense, dry, apple and scything citrus fruit, but it has roundness and charm, and though the acidity is razor sharp, a fruity sense of bonhomie too. £7.49, Marks & Spencer. See the full video review.

under twenty

Château Grange Cochard, Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2009, France
Yet another winning Beaujolais from 2009, this made by James and Sarah Wilding who abandoned St Albans for the charms and challenges of producing Beaujolais. Made from old vine Gamay, it is a wine in a very solid, confident style the nose showing silky, quite Burgundian fruit with a sense of density. Fabulous length on the palate, with more dense, textural fruit and terrific balance. Certainly a big, more burly take on Beaujolais, but delicious and not lacking finesse. £13.95, Berry Bros & Rudd.

sky’s the limit

Domaine Leflaive, Meursault 1er Cru Sous Le Dos d’Ane 2007
Truly lovely nose, quite retsrained and creamy but with fine poise and a gently almondy background. The palate has lovely texture and is riven with delightful acidity. This scythes across the palate with precision and mineral cut, but bound up in a terrific fuit quality. ££59.99, Corney & Barrow.