Six Naked Wines Tasted

My local wine club recently had a tasting supplied by Naked Wines. Despite the company having been around for 15 years it was my first tasting of their wines. In part that was my ‘fault’, because a lot of what I read about the operation didn’t appeal to me.

Naked Wines makes a huge play of their ‘Angels’ programme. Customers become Angels by depositing a regular sum of money into their account. Naked Wines uses this money to subsidise winemakers to make wines. These are then offered back to the ‘Angels’ at prices said to be well below market value. The pitch is: you get a better deal than you can elsewhere, and we’re all helping support winemakers.

It sounds good in theory, but whenever I looked at their wine offering I thought the non-Angel prices seemed excessively high. Indeed, the wines tasted here didn’t seem like especially good value to me, even at their ‘Angel’ prices.

vouchersNaked Wines’ apparent altruism also doesn’t quite square with their recently departed CEO’s basic annual salary of £350,000 – with bonusus potentially reaching £570,000 (source: The Standard newspaper).

£570,000 is not the sort of salary traditional wine retail would recognise, but then, Naked Wines is not traditional wine retail; it’s a dot.com start-up, where big risks and potentially big returns for investors are the norm. Unfortunately, like so many of those, the story has not all been rosy: its current share price values the business at a little over £20 million, a far cry from its £600 million valuation in 2021. In March 2024 a debt advisory company was appointed (source:The Drinks Business).

Does it Work?

Despite it’s financial worries there is no doubt Naked Wines is a slickly-delivered and novel idea. It appears to be operating successfully if their quoted 330,000 UK-based ‘Angels’ is an accurate figure. Indeed, I have encountered many people who are perfectly happy to be ‘Angels’. They enjoy the wines and believe that both they and the winemakers are getting a good deal. So Naked Wines is doing something right.

Naked Wines says its model gives winemakers “the freedom to make wines the way they want to.” That’s probably my final problem with their pitch: with a claimed 790,000 Angels across its UK, Australian and the US operations, is it really possible to support small scale, individual winemakers as they claim? Passionate winemakers are not led by the market, but by their own uncompromising vision. It’s hard to believe that being funded to make wine specifically for your investors encourages that.

The Wines

The wines tasted here were fairly good, but I was not convinced that they offer genuinely good value. Perhaps the scale of the company mitigates against them carrying through their promise to “make spectacular wines exclusively for you, at insider prices.”

(2024) For me possibly the best wine in this small selection, quite herbal and has a certain feeling of richness. Nettle and some elderflower. Bursts with passion fruit and peach on the palate; plenty of vivacious zesty orange and lemon acidity. £21.99, but 'Angels' pay £13.99
(2024) Quite reserved aromatically, a touch of apple and and lemon. Dry, but lacks any punch or real vigour for Sauvignon. Reasonably well balanced, but rather insipid and felt a bit tired. Vin de France, so no regional information given. £16.99, but 'Angels' buy for £12.99
(2024) Lemon and herbs, a clean slightly salty / mineral character.  Plenty of sour lemon fruit on the palate and the classic bitter almond finish. £19.99, but 'Angels' buy for £12.99
(2024) Cool climate character is good, with herbs, pepper and a certain meatiness. Plummy, the palate perhaps a slightly raw quality, a touch of charry character from the oak adds to that. Tannins are firm and this has reasonable balance overall. £24.99, but 'Angels' pay £15.99
(2024) Rich, meaty nose, a little bit baked in character. Quite smooth, but rather one dimensional, a firm, slightly aggressive quality to the acidity, a bit a of raspberry lifts the finish. £13.99, but 'Angels' buy for £12.99
(2024) A Bordeaux blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot and 9% Malbec. Sweet, plush and smooth black fruits. A touch of chocolate, plum and earthier depths. Juicy and well balanced blend. Not hugely complex, but very enjoyable. £21.99, but 'Angels' buy at £13.99.

 

4 comments

  1. All fair comment Tom. I have similar reservations and although I have tasted a few good wines, a lot are average and not particularly good value

    1. As it happens, one of Naked Wines buyers read my article and got in touch to say he’d like me to taste a broader selection of their wines. I agreed, and subsequently received a dozen assorted wines which I am working my way through for a further report. Watch this space!

  2. Honest review, that i’ve not seen to date. I think they appeal to a certain demographic and for them they do a great job. As you say it is a dot.com with some serious backers, so I agree and wonder about some aspects of the model. Good luck to them I say! 😃🍷

    1. Many thanks for the comment. Yes, I guess all is fair in love, war and commerce, and if the ‘Angels’ are happy with the wines and the deal they are getting, far be it from me to try to spoil their fun.

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