The Age of Australia II

In Part I of my Report from Melbourne I tasted 13 fabulous wines at an ‘offline’ lunch with a dozen Melbourne wine lovers. We had such a good time that a few days later a small group of us decided to do it all again, with the promise of some historic icon wines of Australia on the menu. We met up at the excellent Recreation bistro in Fitzroy for another evening that will live long in my memory.

The wines spanned 1985 back to… who knows? The final wine was bottled in 1975, but the back label stated that the age of the cask from which it was drawn was “unknown.” It’s entirely possibly this was 100 years old.

The Wines

Sadly, a Mount Mary Lilydale Cabernets from 1984 turned out to be corked, but that still left an embarrassment of vinous riches to explore.

(2024) Fabulous burnished gold colour, the honey is the first note, sesame seeds, and confit lemon. On the palate the freshness is a delight. The texture is surprising, with a bit of extract grip. Lemon curd comes through more strongly, a light waxiness, seems to have become more pure, more focused as it warms slightly and opens in the glass. Possibly just a tiny bit past its peak, but just superb.
(2024) Really solid core of deep ruby, just fading at the rim. At 58 years of age, a ringer for an aged, serious Pauillac maybe? There's certainly cedar and a sweet earthiness, just a hint of mint or menthol, fantastic still fat black fruit at the core. On the palate the sweetness floods through. A fine cherry acidity propels this, though the tannin is still ripe and tight. Fabulous old wine that shows its age, but so elegantly. Returning later in the evening, just better and better.
(2024) What a fabulous sense of ripeness and completeness here, the colour is solid and the nose immediately soars from the glass. There is olive and tapenade, lots of herbal edges, but rich chocolaty berries too. Blackcurrant and glossy black cherry, so much luscious depth. The tannins are like melted chocolate, so deep, glossy and round, and a crisp acid edges into minerals and tart plum skins, all flooded with that sumptuous fruit. Such a harmonious wine, an absolutely glorious resolution that still has time on its side.
(2024) This has all the tapenade and black olive that I might have looked for here, a more red fruit touch to the still basically cassis character. Another delicious palate that caresses and coaxes its way towards a seamless finish. This is a subtle little beauty that emerges slowly and quietly. Fabulous yet again.
(2024) From Rutherglen, this was bottled in 1975 but the label states the age of the wine as 'unkown'. Made from 'brown muscat'. The nose moves from grilled meats, to nuttiness, to cedar, to espresso to toffee. All the rancio characters are there, but so is luscious, ripe nectarine, the Muscovado sugar weight and richness is absolutely stunning. Super sweet, long, a bittersweet serious nuance to add to the fresh cut of the acidity. An amazing bit of Australian history drinking so beautifully.

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