Over the years many wine companies have attempted to shake off what they perceive as a slightly fusty image. This almost exclusive relates to the great fortified wines of Europe, like Sherry, Port and Madeira. Three more classic names are hard to imagine, yet it is true that for some they conjur up a slightly old-fashioned image of what’s in the bottle, but also who drinks them.
Afficionados recognise these as some of the world’s most profound wines. They can offer fabulous value too – partly down to that ‘unfashionability’. But new audiences are always needed for these wines, so experimenting with both wine style and packaging are a regular feature of producers trying to convince younger, or less traditional, drinkers to try them. Think Niepoort’s ‘Trudy’, a drier and lighter style of ruby Port, or Noval’s ‘Black’, “A Port to be enjoyed simply chilled or as an ingredient in cocktails.”
Madeira for the 21st Century
I recently received samples of four new Madeiras from the highly respected family company, Blandy’s. Designed specifically to challenge existing conceptions of Madeira and attract new consumers, the packaging is radical (for Madeira) and the wines present as something of an attempt to cut through the mystique of Madeira and offer four simpler choices: do you want to try Dry (Sercial), Medium Dry (Verdelho), Medium Rich (Bual) or Rich (Malmsey)?
These are the four main grapes of Madeira and that level of richness/sweetness follows the expected pattern for the varieties. Sercial is normally driest and Malmsey normally richest, but the packaging and presentation of these wines makes that more obvious.
Blandy’s has two cellars, one in the capital city, Funchal, and one in the cooler area of Caniçal on the westernmost tip of the island. Their research has shown that the four varieties prefer the hotter conditions of Funchal during the early stages of the ageing process, but then the drier styles – Sercial and Verdelho – are moved to Caniçal for the final 3-5 years of ageing while the Bual and Malmsey prefer to stay in the warmer temperatures of Funchal.
Led by 7th generation Chris Blandy, the company presents these four new, high quality 10-year-old wines in sleek, clear bottles. Available exclusively from The Whisky Exchange at time of review, priced at £34.95 each.
how do they compare to the “standard” versions.
Adam, I belive these are basically the standard age-dated versions: it’s mainly the packaging and presentation that’s new, aimed at making them easier to understand for those new to Madeira.