The mini-boom in the popularity of wines from Rías Baixas, made from the Albariño variety, has put the northerly Spanish region of Galicia on wine lovers’ radar. But there are other Galician wine appellations growing other varieties that are also worthy of attention. Among these is Valdeorras, a D.O. where the white grape, Godello, and black grape, Mencia, are making some terrific wines.
The Virgen del Galir winery sits at the heart of Valdeorras, and has been part of Rioja’s CVNE family since 2018. They state that they aim to produce wines that “Reflect the values of the land and respect for local traditions.” In recent years CVNE has replanted several vineyards and restored boundaries to produce a range of ‘villa’, ‘plot’ and ‘grand cru’ wines. This is a very similar system to Rioja’s ‘Vino de Pueblo’, ‘Vino de Zona’, and ‘Vinedos Singulares’ (single vineyard wines) which itself takes inspiration from Burgundy’s classification of regional, village and ‘Cru’ vineyards.
Virgen del Galir’s white wines are sourced from the slate soils and high altitude vineyards of the Val de Galir, while red wines come from granite soils in both in the Val de Galir and Val de Bibei. Vineyards rise to over 700-metres, many on terraces cut from the hillsides. A young team is in charge here under technical director Miguel Tienda, though it’s a team with extensive knowledge of the area including oenologist, Jorge Navascues.
The Wines
(2025) From high altitude vineyards, this comes from an early ripening vintage and is made in stainless steel. There's a hint of mealy richness on the nose, of limey fruit skins too with a sense of some minerality and weight. The palate has a touch of sweet Mandarin orange, but firm, slightly salty acids and again, citrus peel directness, gives this quite a steely finish to balance the river mid-palate fruit.
(2025) From the Premier Cru vineyard of A Malosa in the village of Éntoma at 600 metres, this spent three month on fine lees in stainless steel, foudres and 500-litre French oak barrels. It's a particularly intense Godello, with a typical mineral salts zippiness, but quite rich white fruit aromas, crunchy apple, but a certain silkiness to the texture that gives it a supple, mouth-filling presence.
(2025) From the single vineyard 'As Ermitas' which is just one hectare in size and sits at 750 metres altitude, the vines here very old, planted in 1958. It is dominated by Mencia, but a variety of local grapes are co-planted in this vineyard. Six second-use barrels were produced, the wine fermented with native yeasts and spending 12 months oak. There is warmth to the colour of this 2020 wine compared to the purple of the younger wines tasted, and a sweet and spicy bramble and earth profile that also carries a floral touch. In the mouth the acidity of the Mencia grape slices through the richness afforded by the barrel ageing and development of the ripe fruit. This finishes long, with a spicy edge to the fruit and tannins. Watch the
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(2025) This unoaked Mencia from clay and schist soils in Valdeorras is Virgen del Galir's entry level, but shows the delicate cherry-coloured and scented style of the variety very nicely. It is perfumed, but a hint of briar and earthiness adds some depth. In the mouth it has the classic combination of sweet red and black berries with an edge of bright acidity and fine tannins that is typical. This finishes with excellent crispness and clarity.
(2025) From high altitude vineyards, mostly composed of slate. After 48 hours of cold maceration, fermentation in steel is followed by eight months barrel ageing in French and American oak. Moderately pale, there is delightful cherry and briar lift here, gently floral with the soft sheen of vanilla beneath. The palate has signature minerality, adding that firm edge to flavour and texture. Fruit is firm but with a delightful edge of sweetness on the mid-palate, a liquorice twist of bittersweetness edging the finish. What a lovely wine.
(2025) From Valdeorras in Spain, this is 100% Merenzao from the tiny Los Carismáticos vineyard, planted in terraces and shaped like an amphiteathre. The vines are more than 50 years old and the poor soil is worked manually. Spontaneous fermentation in large, 2,500 litre foudres. It has a pale cherry colour at six years old, the nose lightly truffly with small cranberry and redcurrant fruit aromas, and an interesting green-ish, mineral aspect. In the mouth it is firm and savoury, with a certain suede-like character to the texture. The fruit is again taut, small red berries, and its a wine with a tight core of acidity and tannin. Intriguing stuff, which would work well against Parmesan or mature cheddar I think.
