Les Vignes de l’Arque (France) Chardonnay 2004
One of the saddest things to have come out of the ‘Anything But Chardonnay’ movement that (quite correctly) rebelled against cheap, blowsy, over-oaked and plank-flavoured wines, is that now all oaked Chardonnay is viewed with suspicion, if not downright derision. But equally, many people presented with a really tight, minerally, unoaked Chablis find it too severe and too lean. Here is a fine little wine that exemplifies the racy, lemon and style of its juicy, mouthwatering fruit, but which adds in a touch of tropical richness and a mouth-flattering hint of residual sugar to make a clean, crisp, food-friendly wine that is also easy to drink. £5.75
