12/04/2009 – Anakena, Viognier 2008

Anakena (Chile) Viognier 2008
There are still relatively few producers who have really cracked Viognier – supposedly the ‘next big thing’ for several years now. One that has is Anakena, where winemaker Gonzalo Perez says he is picking his fruit a little earlier each year to retain acidity and keep alcohol under control. The results – measured in pure fruit and real zip – are deliciously obvious.Only free-run, or very gently pressed juice is used, with 20% barrel fermented for a short period. It is the absolute essence of liquefied apricot on the nose, with little Botrytis-like touches of honey and marmalade. On the palate the fruit is just as bountiful and ripe, but acidity is good, and though the thick texture and opulence of the wine is unmistakable, this just hangs on to its savoury, food-friendly character. Absolutely terrific and a real bargain at the Wine Rack ‘three for two’ price. £8.49, Thresher