Clos Rocailleux, Gaillac Mauzac Blanc Sec 2013, Southwest, France
Clos Rocailleux is a tiny five-hectare estate in Gaillac run by British husband and wife team, Jack and Margaret Reckitt. I recommended their rose in my summer pinks roundup, but I was also taken with this fairly steely but in its way, charming, white. Made from the green-appley Mauzac grape this is not a wine for lovers of tropical Kiwi Sauvignon or lusciously peachy Viognier: it is strict, almost neutral at first, but its taut apple and citric personality, the cut and verve of its styling, is really appealing. It has good texture and a bit of saline in the finish, but it is by no stretch of the imagination mean: it is always hinting at a more sexy ripeness of fruit – but only ever hinting. Watch the video for my full review, including much more detail and food matching suggestions. £11.99, redsquirrelwine.com.
