10/05/2010 – Henry Fessy, Brouilly 2008

Henry Fessy, Brouilly 2008, France
Beaujolais Nouveau may have had its day (the traditional big bang of the third Thursday in November when the ‘Nouveau’ is released was more of a whimper last year), but there’s a new-found respect for quality Beaujolais from the top Villages, especially the ‘Crus’ like Morgon, St Moulin-a-Vent and, this one, Brouilly. Henry Fessy is now owned by Burgundy’s Louis Latour and this has a robust, tight, powerful aromas of dark cherries and spice, and a touch of earthy grip. On the palate there’s a depth of black fruit here, with a realy focus of cherry and a backbone of tight, savoury tannins. This is a real food wine, which would be good with duck and wild mushroom dishes, as well as hard cheeses. 8.99-9.99, Waitrose, plus independent merchants