Henry Fessy, Brouilly 2008, France
Beaujolais Nouveau may have had its day (the traditional big bang of the third Thursday in November when the ‘Nouveau’ is released was more of a whimper last year), but there’s a new-found respect for quality Beaujolais from the top Villages, especially the ‘Crus’ like Morgon, St Moulin-a-Vent and, this one, Brouilly. Henry Fessy is now owned by Burgundy’s Louis Latour and this has a robust, tight, powerful aromas of dark cherries and spice, and a touch of earthy grip. On the palate there’s a depth of black fruit here, with a realy focus of cherry and a backbone of tight, savoury tannins. This is a real food wine, which would be good with duck and wild mushroom dishes, as well as hard cheeses. 8.99-9.99, Waitrose, plus independent merchants
