(2024) Vergelegen labelThis is not the current vintage of this wine (the 2017 is the one most retailers seem to be stocking), but it just shows how beautifully the wine ages over several years. From an estate very much focused on Bordeaux as a model, it spent 17 months in barrels from top French coopers, 40% new. When I last tasted it in 2019 I noted "serious structure, the deep black fruit bound by firm, gripping tannins and decisive acidity," and while the tannins have mellowed a little since, that wonderful balance of the wine, and that wonderful combination of fruit and structure remains. The intervening five years have also developed its tertiary aromas suggesting game and sweet, damp earth among the more plush black fruits. The current vintage can be had for £17-£18 quite widely, which is surely very attractive for a wine of considerable pedigree and cellaring potential. Stockist and price quoted for the most recent vintage.