(2017) Kooyong is part of the Port Philip stable, winemaker Glen Hayley explaining its vineyards are in a warmer spot that is one of the first as you approach from Melbourne, and very good for Pinot too. Lots of reductive, flinty character, slate and gunflint. Only around 10% sees oak, with no malolactic and the lees not stirred. Such a different style from the Crittenden, with its own more austere charms, touches of green herbs and cool, pithy citrus. Lovely bite of Chablis-like flavour with ramped up intensity. Farmed "more or less," organically.