(2020) California popularised the 'Fumé' style of Sauvignon Blanc, but of course it harks back to traditional top-end white Bordeaux, where Sauvignon is often the major component, and invariably it is barrel-fermented and aged. From a single vineyard planted at between 620 and 710-metres, this was fermented in medium toast Vosges oak barriques, with regular stirring, and up to seven months in oak for maturation. Its a wine that has a sheen of almond and oatmeal oak, but which lets the very peachy fruit sing, a slice of pink grapefruit adding cut and acid balance, just subdued herbal notes, but fresh, dry and zesty in the stylish finish. Stockist at time of review may not be for this vintage.