(2016) The presentation is astonishing: a black neoprene cover opens to reveal a black lacquered wooden case and, cossetted in its velvet lining, a metallic purple bottle with pewter front and rear labels. But to live up to this price tag takes much more than the considerable layers of bling, and the Champagne itself was an excellent example of its off-dry style. A blend of 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages, the cepage is 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Meunier, with a dosage on the lower limit for demi-sec at 33g/L. The initial impression of this pale gold wine with its streaming bubbles is of toastiness, with plenty of buttery, brioche and vanilla character and of truffly developed aromas too. There is baked apple pie crust and caramelised apples. On the palate the sweetness is beautifully balanced by the acidity, a lime-like fruitiness and good length with a creaminess and mouth-filling richness. As someone who is generally not a huge fan of the demi-sec style, a very good example by any reckoning.