(2018) A fabled wine, now selling for £600 or so per bottle (but that's not what I paid almost 20 years ago). The colour is certainly faded, a broad, pale rim, but definitely still some garnet at the core of this. Immediately on opening and pouring a small taste to check the wine I thought it was fairly oxidised, but pouring the first proper glasses around an hour later and the wine seemed to have drawn itself together as if by magic. There is a touch of leafiness, a touch of roasted chestnut, some spice and a touch of dried blood, some firm red fruit too. Over an hour or so of drinking it opens, the palate perhaps just a moment past its prime, but such lovely mineral precision to this, the acidity so perfect, tannins sweetly resolved, and the impression left is of dry redcurrant fruit, but a building warmth of spices and some weight, really quite richly satisfying despite the ethereal red fruits and light gaminess that float into the ether as you drink.