(2017) A Chardonnay from the hillsides of Amity and Eola in Oregon, made using biodynamically-grown grapes. It is barrel-fermented with indigenous and commercial yeasts, and spends 18 months in medium-toast and neutral French oak barrels, of which 40% are new. The toast, spice and cappuccino of the oak marks the nose in a fairly ostentatiously 'serious' wine (big, heavy bottle, wax-sealed cork), but the palate freshens up very nicely, the toast and touch of marmalade still there, but there's a good acid structure and medium-bodied appeal, dry and pithy lemon and grapefruit cutting through any hint of richer fruit flavour. Long, intense and powerful, it matched well with roast chicken.