(2007) 25-year-old Pinot Gris. Coppery and full coloured. Plenty of toast and orange oil notes, with a rich, powerful herbal quality and a lovely underlying apricot kernel fruitiness. The palate is quite full and waxy, with a nice sense of freshness and raciness. This is tight and focused, with the same skin-contact grip and complexity, but an orangy acidity and core of pure fruit powers through. Long and balanced.