(2024) 'Manto' is a special cuvée from Bodega La Geria, a selection of the best fruit fermented in steel with wild yeasts. This is amongst the most linear expressions of Malvasía Volcánica in my tasting, 12.5% alcohol and despite a couple of grams of residual sugar, an uncompromisingly dry style. It's all about the focused salts and lemon of the fruit and acidity. I enjoyed the bracing style of this, but felt it needed just a touch more fruit to ease the rather steely personality.