(2017) Toro in northern Spain lies next to the more famous Ribera del Duero, the two regions often compared as both also make red wines from the same variety - Tempranillo - known locally as Tinta de Toro. This powerful example comes from a 100-year-old ungrafted vineyard, and was matured for 18 months in all-new barriques. It has a dense, saturated colour, and soulful nose crammed with tobacco, spice and vanilla, but also a deep pool of crushed black berry fruit. Small glimpses of game and cedar add some complexity. In the mouth it is fruitcake-rich with plenty more spice and fat, ripe, juicy blackcurrant fruit. Tannins are pretty grippy, which along with the concentration of the fruit and the alcohol (15%) makes it robust, chewy and serious. Its time in barrel and bottle has softened the edges, but I suspect it will evolve nicely over several years.