(2020) This is a punchy, zesty and aromatic white made from the obscure Bellone Bianco variety in Lazio, not far from Rome and best known as the home of Frascati. There's a fat, waxy lemon and melon rind character, touches of riper more exotic fruits, but very clean and fruity. In the mouth it has weight and mouth-filling texture, and the acidity has that saline slightly slippery touch that gives this an extra ounce of weight and intensity, into a long and well balanced finish. Unusual, very easy to drink, yet with a bit of gravitas.