(2019) Cesanese is the principal red grape variety of the Lazio region, home also to Frascati, in the hills around Rome. This is a terrifically deep, juicy and soulful example, crammed with crushed cherry and sweet red berry fruit on the nose, a little lift of rose-petal or the sweetie shop. In the mouth it is dry and substantial, but that smooth, elegant core of fruit never wavers. There is tannin structure here, and there is a lithe, juicy acidity at the core, but the phalanx of creamy, concentrated fruit drives through the finish.