(2017) The waft of rosy red apples was unmissable on opening this Grand Cru, all Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs. It is made from 40-year-old vines in Verzenay, and bottled with 8g/l dosage. The colour is a pale gold, and that distinctive red apple character is joined by gentle pastry notes, a yeasty, lightly earthy autolysis adding depth. It strikes the palate with real authority: considerable fruit sweetness, apple again, succulent pear, but a real intensity and concentration of old vine fruit, dazzling citrus acidity and a lick of salt giving great clarity and extending the finish. Terrific.