(2017) A fascinating new wine from the rejuvenated Piper-Heidsieck, one of Champagne's hottest names right now. This is effectively a 2011 wine, though not released as a vintage Champagne: the information-packed back label reveals that 84% is from 2011, with 16% reserve wines, that it was bottled in 2012 and disgorged in June 2016. That extra 18 months or so of ageing beyond the regular Brut, plus much lower dosage (5g/l as opposed to 10g/l or so) makes the difference. And what a superb wine it is: a little depth to the colour, then a savoury and salty, instantly gastronomic set of aromas, linear white fruits, lots of nutty notes of development, but lovely clarity. In the mouth it combines a fairly magical marriage of creamy expansiveness, almond and ripe stone fruits, with a searing mineral and citrus core, the low dosage helping propel that saline, ozone-freshness of the finish. Terrific and well priced. This wine will mainly be in restaurants, but some high end retailers will also carry it.