(2023) The nose reaches up out of the glass and grabs your senses – absolutely gorgeous, there’s no other word for it. A clear step up from its stablemates. Pure blackcurrant dusted with a sense of blue fruits, and that Mouton spice. So exotic. Tons going on… if Leoville Barton is a string quartet, this is a closer to Led Zeppelin. Tasted en primeur so score is provisional. (JH)