(2015) Château d'Esclans is undoubtedly the hottest property of Provençal, arguably universal, rosé with fans willing to pay over £60 for a bottle of its top cuvée. This offers very good value (a blend of Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Tibouren, Vermentino) and endless delicacy and perfume. Pale and peachy in both colour and flavour, it has pin-point acidity into a long, dry finish, though nuanced and holding interest to the last drop.