(2021) Named after legendary winemaker Tom McDonald, this is made only in the best years, this is whole-bunch pressed and aged in French oak, about half of which was new. You have to like an overtly flinty, struck-match character here, with swirling smokiness, toast and intense preserved lemon and wild mint, a little peachier note. The palate has terrific freshness, with an oyster shell salt and mineral character slicing through that zesty lemon but ripe and succulent mid-palate fruit. No UK stockists at time of review.