(2018) The first production of this super-Ventoux: apparently the quality of the Syrah from a vineyard planted in 1961 was so exceptional in this vintage that winemaker Sebastien Vincenti decided it must be bottled as a separate cuvée. That seems to have been a good decision, with eRobertParker awarding it 95 points. It's a fabulously smoky and meaty wine, a complex perfume that moves from game to violet and from grilling bacon to fresh-cracked pepper, a core of firm black fruit running through it. In the mouth this does not let up, a silkiness of texture despite a hefty tannin framework (that should see it age well), but that meatiness and the freshness of the cherry-pit acidity balances beautifully. A twist of bittersweet liquorice adds to the intrigue in a truly fabulous wine. Very limited quantities made, and obviously limited availability.