(2012) What an enthralling Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits this is, from a relatively lowly appellation but one of Burgundy's best domaines. The colour is a beautifully pale but vivid garnet, and the nose just sings from the glass with smokiness, truffle and briar-wood, a delicate cherry and rose-hip fragrance and just fabulous perfumed exoticism. On the palate there is no let-up: this has absolutely beautiful fruit, lush and yet refined, with the suede-like tannins, elegant acidity and smoothing coffee touches of oak all perfectly balanced. I'll declare that this wine is imported directly by one of wine-pages' minor sponsors, but that has nothing to do with my enthusiasm for a simply terrific Burgundy.