(2017) En garde for the 15% alcohol in this naturally intense, concentrated wine made from century-old Carignan vines in the Languedoc. Ageing in older oak barrels has softened the edges, but cannot suppress the glorious fruit aromatics, bursting with blackcurrant and plum, coated in a slick of cocoa. In the mouth it is super-sweet, the ripeness and clarity of that cassis fruit, a pastille quality, but no lightweight: the firm, grainy tannins and excellent acidity see to that, before a little mellowness eases the long finish. Fabulous stuff for sure. Watch the video
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