(2022) Cathy Faller is in charge of winemaking at this famously female-led house in Alsace, Cathy, her sister and mother having taken over when their father Théo died in 1979. Farming organically, they use only estate fruit from vineyards that include top Grand Crus. This is a discreet and yet powerful wine, the nose showing yellow plum and a little confit lemon, even a touch of butteriness before the palate opens just enough to show an expansive sweet fruit profile (with a little residual sugar). It has a limpid texture and a finish where the acid gently insists rather than dominating.