(2012) At five years of age this has taken on a little colour, and a lovely hint of mineral, paraffin-wax development beneath pristine apple fruit. It's an un-showy style aromatically, and that discreet character continues on the palate: make no mistake, this has delicious concentration and a grip of grapefruit flavour and acidity, but it has restraint too. The mid-palate allows the waxy, full texture to coat the mouth, whilst those ripe but razor sharp apple and citrus flavours betray only the most tantalising glimpse of tangerine and lime, and more opulent character. A bracing, firm finish makes this a fairly intellectual and yet delicious, bone-dry style.