(2024) From a small, sustainably-run estate in Martinborough, this is absolutely the style I expect, with a bit of solidity and higher alcohol, but not without fragrance and elegance. At eight years of agethere's a mere hint of tawny on the rim, but aromas are immediately fresh, with wild strawberry meshing with a sizzle of bacon fat, some truffle and a deeper fruit character. The palate has a certain meatiness and there is a grounding of coffee-ish oak that gives a touch of char. But on top, the fruit is bright and sharply focused, with plenty of acidity and a smoothness to the tannins. I do feel the heat of the alcohol a little, which knocks it back a point or two, but a premium example of quite a serious Martinborough style.