(2023) At English wine producer Exton Park in Hampshire, winemaker Corinne Seely and viticulturist Fred Langdale make a formidable team. From an outstanding vintage where a mild spring and long Indian summer meant excellent ripeness, especially for the Chardonnay crop, this is a selection of fruit from just 20 rows of 20-year-old vines. Made in stainless steel with no oak, the wine spent a full six years on the lees, disgorged in 2021 with 10g/l residual sugar. It spent a further two years in bottle post-disgorgement, and was released in July 2023. Terrific nose, a sour, lactic note moving through to gentle toast. There fruit too, hinting at peach and even mango, citrus like kumquat, and a touch of spiciness. The mousse is fine, and in the mouth the rush of vibrant, acid etched fruit spans crunchy apple to peach. The acid sizzles across the finish, giving this real zest and lemony bite into a long layered finish. Upper echelons of all English sparkling wine.