(2023) Somehow seems more smoky, flinty than the 2019 and 2020, a touch of fig and herbs and peach skins. Limpid and luscious on the palate, that light figgy smokiness continues. There's a creaminess of texture here, the barrel-derived character and a weight of fruit cut by fine acidity. Bottled in December 2019. pH 3.30 and acidity 6.4 g/l.