(2023) Austria's Gru-V in the hands of the talented Jules Taylor, who vinified part of the blend cool in stainless steel, a second portion wild fermented in old French oak. It's aromatically vibrant, cut lime and a shimmer of sherbet over clean apple aromas. In the mouth it is a concentrated wine, quite powerful phenolics adding grippy texture, and plenty of pithy acid, quite slippery and saline in the food-friendly finish.