(2023) Forget the oceans of cheap 'blush' Zinfandel produced in California. This red wine grape is also capable of deep, big-scaled, full-throttle reds of which this 15.4% alcohol behemoth is one example. From old, old vines in Lodi - up to 120 years old - it is barrel fermented and aged. Inky-dark crimson, The nose is smoothly suffused with chocolate and berries, a little floral top note adding interest. In the mouth it is luscious and full. It has to be said that the alcohol is well-handled; it's there alright, adding some heat and volume, but the plushness of the fruit and lip-tingling spice and acidity is a counter-weight. Not for everyone, but if you like the sound of it, it's a wine that delivers.