(2020) Owned by Rioja's La Rioja Alta, Lagar de Cervera is one of the star names of Rías Baixas vintage after vintage. This has a really zippy, brightly-illuminated character, stone fruits but verging into tropical territory, and the preserved lemon tang of citrus and salt. In the mouth it is loveable and easy to drink, a hint of young wine spritz and a keen line of acidity giving both sipability and excellent fish and seafood-matching potential.