(2011) A blend of many grapes, but principally Sauvignon Blanc (38%), Macabeu (35%) and Vermentino (19%). The 14% alcohol in this wine is a typical and unavoidable by-product of fully ripening grapes in the hot, dry Roussillon. Ageing in large oak barrels, the majority of older oak, has added a crushed oatmeal and gently honeyed toast to white flower and firm apple and mineral notes. On the palate the oak adds just a supporting breadth and very discreet toast, the substance of this wine being the pure old-vine concentration of its fruit and the searing core of mineral acidity that runs through it. Yes, there is a trace of alcohol heat in the finish, but it is the clarity and purpose of the finish that drives this.