(2016) Made from 50-year-old Carignan vineyards in the Languedoc, this taut, black-fruited wine has some spice and some intense, plum-skinny aromas, a little note of coal dust and an altogether inky personality. In the mouth the natural liquorice concentration of these old, unirrigated bush vines is at the core of this wine, grippy with tannin and with plenty of acid bite, but the juicy, intense and really quite ripe black fruit is there too. A chewy and slightly rustic southern French red, crying out for some cassoulet or maybe confit duck.