(2016) Flirting with 'natural wine' in concept and execution, this is made from the Juhfark variety, grown biodynamically on the volcanic soils of Somló in Hungary. Golden hued, honeyed stuff, with apricot and walnut, creamy and ripe, and very seductive. The volcanic soils give terrific precision and bright acidity, but the palate shows a touch of mint humbug, concentration and absolutely delicious balance. Shimmering, fresh, but substantial, different and delicious.