(2019) Perhaps even a touch more colour than the 2008, a tinge of orange to ruby. Leafier, a slight more damp leaf character, but then creamy ripe fruit comes through. very dry and grippy, the spices and the tang of citrus skins, grippy, touches of chocolate and creaminess, such a complex profile, again dried apricot.
(2019) Orange peel and spices, nuttiness, salts and fragrant tobacco spices. The palate has huge presence and grip, a touch of toffee and sour lemon, the bitter character so grippy and fascinating, a touch of Botrytis evident, finishing with such spicy intensity.
(2019) Very smooth, but immediately involving nose, with a slightly purer, less Botrytis character than the 2008, but lovely purity of fruit here, as well as the complex phenolic characters from the skin contact. Apricot and orange, marmalade-like quality of bittersweetness, delicious, the fruit almost nectarine like, but of course wrapped in more complex earth and salt flavours, spices too.
(2019) Six months of skin contact for this vintage. A slightly darker, hint of amber hue. Wonderful nose, all coffee and cream and a gentle, damp leafy character, the touch of briar and oxidation fitting beautifully with the picture. On the palate so bone dry and salty, like a fragrant meat stock broth, then that lovely lemony acid and pure mineral salt finish.
(2019) Verging on brown, deep colour with a russet touch. Lots of caramel and spice, almost minty, with the dried fruits in the background. In the mouth it has spices and lovely leafiniess, mellow but still so tangy, so vibrant in terms of acidity and the fruit that is definitely still there.
(2019) Bottled only in magnum, this is the special Riserva from 1915 and 1950 vineyards. One year in amphora, six years in barrel, then six more years ageing in bottle before release. Gorgeous, glowing gold. Nutty, lots of ripe apricot fruit, both fresh and dried, and an ash and tobacco lift, but very elegant as well asÂ concentrated. Fabulous, endlessly long, complex and youthful.
(2019) A very warm vintage, This was bottled 2012 and released in 2018. Dark, almost coffee-coloured wine, with lots of briar and leafy damp forest floor, a touch of clove and medicinal character. The palate surprises with its initial fruit sweetness, the tang is almost sherbetty, in a fascinating wine, cocoa and coffee moving into that pin-sharp, salty finish. Is it a touch too saline and dry? Maybe for some, but I found this fascinating and compelling.
(2019) From Gravner's pre-amphora period, made in big barrels with seven days skin contact. Also the first year Josko was searching for Botrytis in his grapes. Gorgeous nose, with honey and sesame seeds, a definite sense of sweetness and the latent vibrancy of the fruit - the Sauvignon and Riesliing - still discernable, juicy citrus to finish. A big change of pace from the amphora wines, lots of punchy fruit, touched with caramel and coffee but a marvellous wine.
(2019) From the pre-amphora period, made in a mix of 80% new and older barriques. No skin contact. Plenty of orange and even peachiness, a little bit of age showing, a touch of oxidation, but the colour still so youthful. The waxy, old parcel string and brown paper quality is intriguing and there is genuine fruit sweetness at the core of this still. Perhaps not in perfect condition, but still very good.
(2019) As a wine that *could* have come from a top Burgundy appellation, it is probably the more 'international' style that Josko later rejected, but he pulled out a bottle to show me and I thought - viewed objectively - it was stull a fabulous wine. It has a buttercup yellow into light gold colour. It is very much Chardonnay, very much Burgundian, with some creamy hazelnut and almond over buttery but clean and so pure custardy apple fruit, delightful pastry notes of the delicate oak. Hugely sweet fruit on the palate, deliciously medium-bodied, with gorgeous spices and toast into the finish, the crisp lemon acidity and those delicate but sweet fruit flavours beautifully balanced.