(2018) With 10 years of ageing under its belt, this has gained a lovely tertiary maturity. The colour is still deep, just softening with a hint of tawny on the rim, and with plenty of game and truffle character coming through against the ripe fruit that has elements of both plush blackcurrant and more lifted cherry and raspberry, as well as a sheen of oak. In the mouth that chewiness of tannin and texture gives plenty of full-bodied richness, the fruit is sweet, perhaps even a touch overripe, but the spice and tobacco, the dark and liquoricy combination of fruit and acidity, gives it plenty of character. For drinking now or over the next few years.