(2010) >From mixed plantings of 41 different red varieties, foot-trodden then aged in new Allier oak barrels. Massive nose, with abundant creamy, cappuccino oak, a welter-weight of plummy fruit and yet a perfumed edge that is much lighter and more floral. Brilliant fruit on the palate, really sings out with massive berry sweetness, a slick of chocolate and terrific length. How does such quality and personality get crammed into a bottle?