(2012) Made from old vines (some 50 years old) grown at around 350 metres altitude, this is aged in small barrels, but those are second fill, so its effect on the nose is to add a savoury, cedary touch to the sinewy, graphite and cherry fruit. It is not so seductively perfumed as the Palladino below, but nuances of game and something floral are in there, and it has a sense of structure and seriousness about it. On the palate its authority is obvious: it's a very dry wine, all dry tannins and concentration, but it has a leanness and a gravel and spice savouriness at its core. The acidity is lovely - a fresh bit of cherry skin - and the long, spicy finish is both harmonious and intense.